Quote:
Originally Posted by chickentikka25
@Dexter - I've got a 66g Rudebits brass weight under my lipo, but had to
raise the screws to fit the battery bar in for my bigger lipo's.
Get some car wheel weights and get at least 10g each side on the rear of the chassis using the small 5g weights, in the section behind the speedo and receiver. Also, you can put some along the battery bar, not brilliant, but I see it a lot and it works.
I've got around 130g on the car at the rear, plus a ghea brass bulkhead which stops it wheelieing. My son has some of the 5g weights around the servo too.
Oh, and don't just look at weight (although that will help immensely), experiment with slipper settings and shock setups...squat settings can really help, as can wheelbase.
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Thanks for the reply,
I have 10 grams on the front top plate and either a 36 or 72g under servo weight (rudebits), on the scales it was showing 1603 grams using LiPos !!!
I was still getting loads of wheel spinning o to try adding weight to help cut down the wheelspinning and get more grip so isve modded my rear chassis brace and have added 20 grams to it, also added 20 grams on the rear arm mount (5 grams on the front of it and 15 grams between the back of the rear arm mount and gear box !!!
Im using a 60 gram rudebits battery strap aswell which B4 is now around 1700 grams and still finding it frustarting to drive............
Theres only been once where ive ran B4 in a sports hall where ive actually had a fair amount of grip and not so much wheelspin when running a 17x2 or 17x4 brushed motor and running Nimh batteries !!!
Im new to racing and setups so dont know which way to go about setting my B4 up properly or for my driving style
