here you got it:
associated parts
1766-B4/T4/GT ligthweight outdrives
6589-5/32" x 5/16" bearings
7677-differential rebuild kit for RC10GT
or you can order 7677 items separately
7666-diff rings
6575-thrust bolt and t-nut
6574-thrust balls
6582-thrust spring
6573-thrust washers
-I used duratrax spur gear (78T or 81T) but I think are the same that kimbrough spurs.
-For last yor will need eight 1/8" differential balls, associated or any other (these are 1/12 cars ball differential)
you must make some dremel work because the differential bearing dont fit the spur center hole (outer diameter of the bearing its smaller), I saw that standar 540 motor bearing do it but internal diameter its worst...
I made a plastic part (like a bushing) to fit the gap between bearing and spur internal hole, you must put special attention to make it well rounded because if not the spur will be eccentrix, (I have to test the resistance of this piece, I think will be better in metal material but its more difficult for me making it).
Now you can mount the diff. and tighten till the spring full compression, then loose 1/4 turn.
When you mount the diff. you have to do it with T-nut towards front center shaft and insert first rear shaft (I "touch" with dremel the rear upper deck inner edges a bit for easily outdrive insert through).
Now you will see that front outdrive bearings need a spacer to stay in its correct site of the bulkhead, its very easy to make a spacer for this, you need a 4.5mm spacer (from a brass ballpen jeje).
In the rear outdrive bearing I used 2 or 3 shim spacers (ASC2293)
It can be that spur touches the center bulkhead cap so you know: dremel work in the center bulkhead, only a bit...
Some pics (for
sucolega AJAJAJA):
The problem of the spur centering comes fron T-nut/front center shaft, with a shortest t-nut or shaft the spur wold be perfect in its place but...