FS2 stripping spurs

baD · #1 19-09-2010

Hoping you guys in here can help - if you have heard of anything similar.

ZX-5 FS2 built out of the box, everything as it should be. Motor slipped and knacked the first spur. No idea what happened to the second or third one!
I've meshed pinion/spurs on buggys for 20yrs, old mod6, 64dp on TCs and lots of 48dp buggys. I've never had this problem before. I leave very little slack.

I'm running a Team Wave RB-50 & 8.5 brushless

It seems to slip worst on breaking, that's when the noise is really bad.

Any ideas, suggestions?

bert digler · #2 19-09-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by baD

Hoping you guys in here can help - if you have heard of anything similar.

ZX-5 FS2 built out of the box, everything as it should be. Motor slipped and knacked the first spur. No idea what happened to the second or third one!
I've meshed pinion/spurs on buggys for 20yrs, old mod6, 64dp on TCs and lots of 48dp buggys. I've never had this problem before. I leave very little slack.

I'm running a Team Wave RB-50 & 8.5 brushless

It seems to slip worst on breaking, that's when the noise is really bad.

Any ideas, suggestions?

have you tried meshing it really tight with only a nats knacker of backlash also make sure there is enough slip on the clutch to take any snatch out,
finally is the motorplate or drives distorted

carlin · #3 19-09-2010

This is very strange first time i have heard anyone having problems with stripping spurs.

My first question where is it stripping?

Is it on the teeth or inside where the slipper pads are?

Also you say worse when applying the breaks, sounds to me something wrong with the diffs??

bkelsall · #4 19-09-2010

Hey Bad,

I'm assuming you're knocking teeth off the thing like it's gone to the dentist.

Put a new one on and check that under full left/right lock the tie rod cant contact the spur. This can wear it slightly, weakening it, then it strips because you're only running on part of a spur. Other than this all I can say is aim for a tiny bit of backlash and really crank them bolts up that hold the motor in.

Secondly if something on the car sounds rough as a badger's a*se when braking (and you've sorted the spur stripping out) then look at your front diff/idler shimming. I shimmed it incorrectly when i first built mine and the sound is that of the teeth jumping over one another.

baD · #5 19-09-2010

cheers for the input

More info/detail
After putting a new spur on the FS2 it sounds perfect, sweet as a nut. Then after a good run or two it sounds like a first generation pred ! I do wonder if the chassis material is such that it exaggerates/amplifies the noise rather than absorbs it. Seems to be a totally different material from all other cars I've had.

The spur is nowhere near any tie rod or anything else, just the pinion.
The pinion(s) is/are in good nick
The wear is only ever the tops of the teeth - it doesn't take them down to bald, it doesn't wear it in patches, but takes the tops off all teeth.
I'll check for distorted plate - it never occurred to me something this thick could bend/distort.
Diffs are smooth - on the loose side if anything.
Never stripped any teeth from either diffs - they are both aok

the investigation continues .........

PS - gonna ensure the mesh is changed from a nats knacker to a baby nats knacker from now on, or at least till I can find what's causing this.

Rob_B · #6 19-09-2010

I had a simlar problem on the cat, Found out that the slipper was to loose and was melting the inside of the spur which was causing it to move. Run the car with hardly any slip now not had a problem. Not familiar with the fs2 but worth a check.