Yokomo YZ-2

[Allan1875]

Originally Posted by timoxx4

Yeah the RB6 has a ackerman plate that everyone was reversing to place the ball studs back more to calm the steering down as its a rather twitchy car to begin with. I pushed mine one step further and made a alloy one on the milling machine that placed the ball studs even further back and it made the steering even more settled down.

I also race 1/8th nitro buggy Mugen MBX7R and its the same. Ackerman links back = calmer steering. Its just how those particular cars work I guess. And I have just always thought that's how all cars react to ackerman changes in the same way but I guess it can be opposite.

So after speaking to a couple of people, and looking into a couple of different cars, it's apparently due to the pivot point of the bell crank.

For example, I looked at the B5M manual and it suggests that you remove shims and move the ballstud further back to calm the steering, however on this car, the pivot point for the bell crank is on the opposite side (closer to the rear of the car).

Still doesn't clear up the confusion with the RB6 as when I looked at the manual (for the 2015), it shows the pivot point in the same position as the YZ2 (closer to the front of the car). This could still be to do with angles of the link though.

One thing I can tell you for definite, is that when I went from 3mm to 4mm under the ballstud on astro, it really calmed the car down on low speed steering.

Love to know if anyone knows more on this subject though as I find it interesting.

The mugen as per the BMAX4 have the pivot point behind the ackermann plate, therefore back = calm, forward = aggressive.