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#21
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also, no fan or heatsinks, small footprint, small capacitor, easy trackside adjustment....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#22
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Yes, I'm loving the lack of fans, heatsinks and all. So I know I could go do this research myself but seeing as this thread is alive and well - Which is the 'better' model? the Pro or the RS?
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#23
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Randy,
R1 Pro (uncensored) with Orion 7.5BL on LiPo's problem is from standing start the motor won't spin up/lazy unless I'm real easy on the throttle When she's up and running all is OK. Motor has standard timing and is geared 24/81. Any suggestions?
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#24
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reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.
Have you also checked to see if there is a newer firmware with your hotwire?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#25
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Quote:
HW says no new updates. I'll try the above
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#26
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have you tried downloading the software off the website, let me just check what mine shows.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#27
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uninstalled and reinstalled using website zip file
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#28
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erm ... and what about CastleCreations Castle Link? AFAIK, this does exactly the same: setting up the ESC through pc or laptop, uploading new functions when available. anyway, back on Tekin-topic |
#29
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RS Pro
got this in 4wd with 5.5bl on 17/87 and NiMH what settings would you suggest for indoors?
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#30
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Sensored only
max 30' timing, that includes any advance on the motor and hotwire, 15' is optimal Limiter 90 TP3 Neatral width, 16 Brake full
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#31
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OK, the "soft start" you're reffering to is related to the 180 software. 183 has a much harder launch. The site doesn't have it so shoot me an email and I'll hook you up with it.
For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this: NW 10 BS 85 TP 3 Timing at 80 Dual Mode Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start) The other settings are personal pref. |
#32
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've been doing some homework : reading on the Tekin-site.
Quote:
Do I understand this correctly? |
#33
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also another question:
On this info-page (http://www.teamtekin.com/blmotors.html#redlines) I could see data about the kV-performance of the Sensorless motors ... but not these same kV-data about the sensored motors. Why is that? Shouldn't it be much easier to compare the perfomance when these data from all motors are available? |
#34
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it isn't as simple as what turn it is, there is the material of the magnets, the diamter of the rotor and the airgap, these all go along at define the RPM of the motor, but might not actualy show the 'power' of the motor, it is never as simple as that.
The sensorless motors can be geared pretty high, whereas the sensored motors need a much smaller pinion to achieve the same 'performance'. If that makes sense.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#35
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ok, but then, if a sensored BL motor can be run sensored AND sensorless, when driving with the RS Pro-ESC, having the advantages of both in the Dual mode ... why should one choose a sensorless motor where you can not have these advantages?
Last edited by Lowie; 10-01-2009 at 10:04 PM. Reason: typos |
#36
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the sensored and sensorless motors from Tekin are, two different motors, and have totally different characteristics, so that makes them uncomparable, if that makes sense.
On the RS, if you are running a sensored motor, with the harness plugged in, you can run in dual mode, senored and sensorless. If you are running a sensorless motor, you can only run in sensorless mode.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#37
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As for sensorless off-road I agree with what's said above. The 448 is perfect for indoors. |
#38
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Quote:
Quote:
Maybe it must be my lack of english-understanding but I still haven't understood when I should choose a sensored and when a sensorless solution. I'll study some more on the net tomorrow. |
#39
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it really isn't a simple answer, as what you need is down to how you like your power.
If you like it soft at the bottom end, senorless, if you like it full of punch, get sensored. As for ESC, if you are not sure, get the RS Pro, as then you can use ALL the motors.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#40
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i stand corrected
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