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#581
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can you gear up a little? and turn the motor physical timing down to 0' to get the acceleration back?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#582
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Well I guess I could. I was just interested in the sensored mode as I saw most setups on the tekin site uses that mode. Can you physically adjust the timing on the tekin motor? It looks fixed or?... It's really working fine, it's just that I wanted to know if I could make it even faster.
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#583
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It is adjustable, three endbell screws, loosen, then turn it to increase or decrease timing, if you not touched it, you should be set at 12'
Sensored would give you a lot more RPM and make it more aggressive.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#584
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This might sound like a strange question to ask but is RS Pro packaging made from blister pack - the stuff you you have to cut open? Or is it re sealable. Reason being is that I like to keep all my packaging in order in case I want to sell it on? Thanks.
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#585
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If I remember right, it comes in a box.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#586
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Yep, it comes in a folded plastic box as DCM says, so it is re-sealable........ wierdo!
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#587
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for those that don't visit other forums Trevor Coult from C.A.R.S. has written a Beginners Guide Setup for the ESC & Hotwire
also see these downloads by Mark Brown
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#588
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Ah Eccellentai. Thanks Bagsofskil and DCM.
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#589
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Ignore- question answered by a mate!
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#590
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Hi can anyone recomend settings for the RS pro and redline 6.5 in my durango, I've got the 203 software.
I think I'm running something around this: Dual mode Timing 80 profile 3 limiter 90 neutral width 8 Also what should the timing be on the motor? I took it apart to make sure it was clean and oiled and I can't remember what timing was set at. It was at the default setting but I can't find anywhere that states what that is.
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Lets Off Road! |
#591
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default setting is 12', if you want a little more grunt, then turn it down to 0', then you can afford to gear it up just a little.
Settings are about right to be honest
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#592
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In my Durango im running the below. Seems pretty good now
Drag Brake 0 Current Limiter 90 Timing 70 Neutral 20 Profile was 3, now gone to 2 as the car has more initial grunt than B44 i used to run. Quote:
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{CML Distribution} {Penguin Bodyshells} |
#593
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Nice one cheers guys. To be honest it felt good but was a bit lacking down the straight at worksop. I'll have a check to make sure I've got the timing right.
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Lets Off Road! |
#594
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hey chaps
on sunday i had a problem with my rs pro it has previously been fault less basicly whay was hapening it would shut down momentarly then start again its definetly the esc as initaly i thought it was the spectrum but i changed that to std 40mhz and problem was still there. what would happen you would start the race and on about lap 4 it would loose all power to both throttle and steering just for a split second then it would come back on it would do this randomly from then on. imo the esc was rather warm for the amount of time on the track (2 leds) but warm to touch i know its not the motor (x12 13.5) causing the problems as once i changed the esc i set the 5th Q time and won leg 1 in the A and finished 3rd overal. has anybody got any ideas. stu (running SW 203 with no boost sensord mode) |
#595
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try swapping out the cap.
2 led's is nice and cool.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#596
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no its not the cap cut it off still does it.
stu |
#597
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might want to email support@teamtekin.com and they be able to help you more, I have not seen that problem myself, or even ask over on the Tekin forum.
I assume you checked all your connections?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#598
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yeah all connections checked im just in the proses of reloading the software to see if this cure problem it is intresting ive got it on the bench ive powerd it up its flashing led 1&2 and 6&7 which is wrong motor selected but software tells me its is correct and led in mode tell me its correct.
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#599
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If you're getting led's 12 67 and you're hooked it up to a known good brushless motor it may need to be serviced.
Make sure you're on MT 1.
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Tekin Team Manager |
#600
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Hello all.
I have some great news ... and a question good news: A local racer, with plenty of talent, asked me some time ag, if I did not had some advice for him. He was looking for a low-cost ESC ... but with rather good specs for his stockracing. I explained him about Tekin and a long story in short, he bought himself an RS Pro ... and recently bought a second one He was positivly amazed, as was I, about the performance that the 203-version of the soft was delivering. In the mean while, His performances .. and that of my car, have amazed more then one pilot. Only today I overheared more then One driver saying they defenitly needed a Tekin-ESC too, for their 17.5 and 10.5-class touring racing. I have responded to a lot of questions, showed the ESC, the setup-buttons, the Hotwire, the software on my laptop ... and it really has made a difference. Actually, as we speak, my two RS Pro's are installed in two Tamiya TA05IFS v2-cars that me and two friends will be racing in an endurance race: 8 hour's of non-stop driving, all cars free, EFRA-body, Limited tyres-choice and obligatory Nosram 17.5-brushless motor. We did some testing today (that's where we were astonishing the other teams ) ... and the car went well. WIth a little fan on the motor, we had a temp of 45°C on the motor and 38°C on the ESC. Now my question: we drive a Tamiya TA05-car, Tekin RS Pro, Nosram 17.5 -motor, ratio of 4,5, on a rather small, bendy carpet-track, medium grip and with a One-way in stead of our usual spool because of the bendyness of the track and the fact that we don't need to use the breaks. Could someone give advice on the setup of our ESC, so that we get an optimal ratio on speed / driving-time / less heat on the ESC. ATM I have it on throttle Profile 3, voltage cutoff 2, sensored, delay 0.2, boost timing 45 and turbo boost 8 ...
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aka Ludo |
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