Team Tekin Q&A

[TonyV2382]

Originally Posted by DCM

you may want to look at the sensored route then, with a low(ish) timing boost, and then a good amount of Turbo boost on the straight, maybe along the lines of :

End RPM 15,000
Start RPM between 4,000 and 5,00
Motor timing @ 0'
Boost timing @ 20'
Turbo timing @ Max

Turbo delay about 0.3s
Turbo Ramp set at 2

I entered this setup on the 201. I picked the car up and throttled it, and it seems like the turbo came on very violently lol. What profile should I run though the linear, concave or convex? If he power is too explosive and I need to smooth it out, what is the best way to do this?

Also the timing advance, boost, turbo, and turbo ramp kinda confuse me. Each seems to say that they all add extra timing rpms on top of the other. Can some1 break it down for me and tell me exactly what the difference is. It all seems to do the same thing to me yet theres is like 4 different ways of doing it. Help lol.

[DCM]

When on the track, it won't feel so violent as there will be more loading on the weels, but you could turn the Turbo Ramp to 1 (softest setting).

Timming advance, ok, a quick explanation.

At zero RPM, the motor will only see whatever the motor is set to, so if it is 0' then thats what you get, if you got 15', thats how much you get (the lower the motor timing, the higher the initial torque)

Timing boost, this has three settings, End RPM, Start RPM and amount of Timing. This will start adding extra timing ontop of what the motor has at the RPM point set on the 'Start RPM', and will finish with the amount of timing you have set at the end rpm you have set.

Turbo Boost, this is extra timing that comes on at full throttle, you have a delay before it starts adding the timing you set on the slider, at a rate set on the Turbo Ramp (1 being the softest).

So, when your at full throttle, your timing will be [b]motor timing + boost + turbo[b] aim to not be above 50' when you add them all up.

[Oliv996]

Hi,

What setup could you suggest for my AE B4 motorized with Novak Ballistic 8.5T through RSPro 212 Vegazed? What could be a good starting point for Final Drive Ratio?

Thanks

[DCM]

You could try the above setup, and tweak it to suit your track or run it in dual mode, timing 80, RPM range set as default, Limiter 90%.

FDR, I don't know.

[Randy p]

There are a lot of setups found here:

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/index.html

[arransmith27]

Hey there

Looking for some guidance and suggestions with a setup for an RS Pro :

Associated B4
Nosram 10.5
Track : very tight/twisty carpet track with approx 15 metre straight

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dingbat]

Originally Posted by Randy p

Hey Guys,

Randy Pike from Tekin. I'm here to help answer any technical questions you may have about our products.

As you know we have some of the Predator guys using the Tekin RS Pro and Redline motors in their cars.

If you have any questions, please ask away!

Hello Randy.
My friend has the Rs Pro and between us we cannot get the
drag brake to work or the brake to work on a 2.5 turn unsensored tekin motor or on an unsensored 6.5
tekin motor.

I have a sensored GM 10.5 motor but i have not unsoldered this one yet to try.

Programming is done using the mode button manually on the Esc, as we have no program card.
Any help will be most graciously received.


Paul.

[Lowie]

'llo dudes

I have two simple questions:
I run a 2WD (RB5) and run mostly on astrotracks. I have a RS Pro as ESC that I most fond of ... but now, my brushless motor has broken down after a whole 2 seasons of competitions. I had a p'Tit Yo 9.5-motor (handtuned).
So I'm looking for a replacement motor and would like to try a Tekin one.
I'm thinking about a 8.5.

1. I would choose a sensored motor but wonder why one would choose a sensorless motor over a sensored?

2. where can I order such a motor (online), and have it delivered to my house within a week? (I have a comp in BCA Charleroi on dec 19th)
... without paying a gazillion of $ or €

thx!

[DCM]

Hi Ludo, Sensored just drives much better, has better feel and is just faster. Either a 7.5 or 8.5 are a good choice.

As for getting one fast, I would try RC Disco (distributor in the UK).

[Randy p]

Exactly what motors are they? most sensorless motors aren't not wound like a 6.5 etc.

[AJ Roberts]

Im having a problem with my RX8 SC4X 5.5T combo in my HN SCRT10, today i run 1x 2s and 1x3s, but when i tried another 3s it seemed to be cogging, it would pull away well for a second then cog like hell, thinking it was the pack i put in a fresh 3s and it still did it, ive never had a problem on my 3s before, must have done 20 packs through it, but when i put a 2s back in it runs fine???? ive factory reset the esc and recalilbrated the TX but it still does the same, any ideas ????????

The 2s are JP Track Pro 5000mah 25-50c
And the 3s are Turnigy 4000mah 20-30c

I hope its that the 3s cant supply enough amps, i just find it odd that it had run fine on these packs up to now?????

[NTS]

Hello all,

Last night I used my new Tekin RS for the first time, the car was fast enough but the throttle response was inconsistent making the car very hard to drive. Sometimes there is a noticeable hesitation on acceleration, maybe ¼ second. This can also be seen on the bench, if I repeatedly accelerate smoothly the car will generally follow but occasionally it seems to miss part of the input and then start with a jolt.

There is also an oddity when I switch on, I get the chimes and the ESC settles down to show just LED 4 but then flashes to all LED’s lit and flashing about every two seconds and then back to LED 4 again and so on. The all LED’s lit and flashing pattern is the same as that for “no signal”. Other peoples Tekins seem to swap between LED 4 and LED 1 when the ESC is cold. If I connect my ESC to a friends Futaba system the ESC shows LED 4 then LED 1 as you would expect.

The ESC calibrates fine, throttle normal, everything set to 100% etc. I have tried the factory reset, made no difference.

Electrics Setup: Tekin RS (2.12), LRP X12 13.5, 5000mAh / 40c lipo, Spektrum DX6i with AR6200 receiver.

Car Setup: Xray T3, fdr 7.60

ESC Setup: Tried lots of settings, 2s, sensored.

Can anyone shed any light on what might be wrong as I’m really struggling to drive the car cleanly with the inconsistency?

Cheers, Nick

[HarlowS]

Ok, so what your saying is that if you plug your Tekin into somebody elses car it appears to perform as normal ?? If this is the case it must be something local in your car. Have you tried different motor & Sensor wire ?? Different receiver ?? Its going to be a matter of trying things one by one im afraid.

Originally Posted by NTS

Hello all,

Last night I used my new Tekin RS for the first time, the car was fast enough but the throttle response was inconsistent making the car very hard to drive. Sometimes there is a noticeable hesitation on acceleration, maybe ¼ second. This can also be seen on the bench, if I repeatedly accelerate smoothly the car will generally follow but occasionally it seems to miss part of the input and then start with a jolt.

There is also an oddity when I switch on, I get the chimes and the ESC settles down to show just LED 4 but then flashes to all LED’s lit and flashing about every two seconds and then back to LED 4 again and so on. The all LED’s lit and flashing pattern is the same as that for “no signal”. Other peoples Tekins seem to swap between LED 4 and LED 1 when the ESC is cold. If I connect my ESC to a friends Futaba system the ESC shows LED 4 then LED 1 as you would expect.

The ESC calibrates fine, throttle normal, everything set to 100% etc. I have tried the factory reset, made no difference.

Electrics Setup: Tekin RS (2.12), LRP X12 13.5, 5000mAh / 40c lipo, Spektrum DX6i with AR6200 receiver.

Car Setup: Xray T3, fdr 7.60

ESC Setup: Tried lots of settings, 2s, sensored.

Can anyone shed any light on what might be wrong as I’m really struggling to drive the car cleanly with the inconsistency?

Cheers, Nick

[DCM]

I would guess the fact that you are using a 'flight' radio and not a 'surface' radio may be a starting point here. Have you converted it to a sprung throttle, or is it still on a ratchet?

[HarlowS]

Good spot, never noticed it was a 6 channel !!!

[AJ Roberts]

Originally Posted by DB01R

Im having a problem with my RX8 SC4X 5.5T combo in my HN SCRT10, today i run 1x 2s and 1x3s, but when i tried another 3s it seemed to be cogging, it would pull away well for a second then cog like hell, thinking it was the pack i put in a fresh 3s and it still did it, ive never had a problem on my 3s before, must have done 20 packs through it, but when i put a 2s back in it runs fine???? ive factory reset the esc and recalilbrated the TX but it still does the same, any ideas ????????

The 2s are JP Track Pro 5000mah 25-50c
And the 3s are Turnigy 4000mah 20-30c

I hope its that the 3s cant supply enough amps, i just find it odd that it had run fine on these packs up to now?????

Anyone??????

[DCM]

Have you any other 3S batteries to try?

[AJ Roberts]

Im going to borrow one wednesday, i just find it odd that it runs ok on 2s????

[NTS]

Thanks for the response gents.

Originally Posted by HarlowS

Ok, so what your saying is that if you plug your Tekin into somebody elses car it appears to perform as normal ?? If this is the case it must be something local in your car. Have you tried different motor & Sensor wire ?? Different receiver ?? Its going to be a matter of trying things one by one im afraid.

In terms of the switch on feedback, yes my RS is plugged into a futaba receiver then you get the LED 4 then LED 1 pattern that you would expect. This was a bench test so I can't comment on how it works on the track and if it has any effect on the hesitation issue. As you say this would suggest the issue is "local to my car" and the Spektrum receiver is the obvious candidate. I have tried it with another Spektrum receiver (AR500) in my buggy and it responds the same as when in the touring car. Other things I have tried, different sensor cables yes, one of them new. Different motor no, I do have a Novak SS I can put in but the X12 was running perfectly before I installed the Tekin and the Tekin LED's appear to show the sensors working OK.

Originally Posted by DCM

I would guess the fact that you are using a 'flight' radio and not a 'surface' radio may be a starting point here. Have you converted it to a sprung throttle, or is it still on a ratchet?

I'm guessing the switch on response is related to the Spektrum receiver (see above) whether this is "Surface" or "Air" specific no idea. Yes my DX6i is converted to sprung throttle, simply locked out the right hand up and down movement and fitted the parts to the throttle stick. As far as I can tell there should be no difference in the receiver outputs, they drive the same servos after all. I have used this radio for over a year now with no issues on either a Novak GTB or the previous LRP Stock Spec. Again I'm not sure if this is related to the hesitation issue or not.

[HarlowS]

I can see where your coming from and as you have had no issues with your old GTB then yes it would point to speedo. If i were you and you could get hold of the items then i would get a cheap tx & rx and hook it up in your car with the Tekin. See if that works. If it does then we know its an issue with the Spektrum gear that you are running. If this is the case then i dont know compatability reasons why it wouldnt work. But at least we know where the issue lies.