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#1
16-02-2011
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Mid-Rat/TC02C/Mad Monkey build photos
Some photos from TC02C mid-engined Ansmann 2WD buggy build. First impressions are very good (kit comes in a nice corrugated plastic box instead of usual cardboard) with a sleeve showing photos of the the completed buggy. I've been seriously surprised by this kit, the quality really isn't reflected in the price - it gives the impression it should cost £50 more than it does. No flash on any parts, no cutting, grinding, kit goes together superbly. Only a few areas needed minor modification but more 'cus I'm fussy than because of any real build issues (more on that later).
 Transmission bits - everything is anodized a nice shade of blue, even the alloy bits you can't see inside the gearbox!  Diff is conventional, nice large diameter, twin ball raced, builds easily and feels as smooth as anything else out there. Only problem I had was I split the plastic carrier the nyloc diff nut sits in, but that was due to being clumsy and impatient... Thrust race is a pre-assembled captive type with the teeny little balls held in place in a brass carrier - soooo much easier and no faffing around. One annoying point - diff screw has a Phillips screw head rather than a hex - going to be annoying trackside trying to adjust your diff. Do yourself a favour and fit a hex head bolt at this stage of the build.  Diff even has machined flats on the steel outdrives to save weight...this does not look like a budget kit - no corners skipped here  Twin idler, full 4spd gearbox - not a conversion kit for a Mad Rat, a properly designed buggy in it's own right. Metal idler gear as standard on layshaft, optional alloy idler gears available but I haven't heard of any issues with the kit standard items so no need for them AFAIK.  Twin slipper pads, beautifully made, falls together, quality looks as good as anything out there. Plus parts are dirt cheap,no more £10 replacement slipper pad sets...  Fully assembled gearbox (with optional machined alloy grey motor plate) fitted onto rear T-plate. Note alloy motor plate brace - standard in kit, not optional like X6! Front rear pivot block moulded into T-plate limits tuning options later on (antisquat not adjustable).  Full assembled back end. Optional alloy rear bulkhead fitted, weighs 20g versus 8g for standard plastic part so doesn't add a great deal of weight but looks good  .  The drive shafts have C clips like the B44 so no need to faff around with grub screws, plus they come assembled in the box - bonus!  Front end is similar in style to the Kyosho RB5, but is not a clone, all parts are unique - fell together perfectly. Only slight issue was had to file the wishbones slightly to get the castor blocks to drop under their own weight, but that's 'cus I'm fussy. They'd free up fine with a few runs on their own, it wasn't a big issue. Photo shows optional alloy bulkhead with brass insert, only adds a few grams in weight even with brass insert, which weighs 4g so not really going to set the world alight as a tuning aid, however it helps make the car stronger. There's still room above the front bulkhead to add extra lead. Also shows grey alloy front brace (not needed! Kit comes with an identical blue alloy one as standard).  Ballraced steering, integrated servo saver, more lovely blue alloy bits..  Front axles are RB5 style, but might need bearing crush tubes (same for rear) for reliability during racing - time will tell  Complete front end - Ansmann include foam rings for all ball studs, anodized alloy shock mountings plus all ball studs are a 2mm allen key hex fit - nice touches and really easy to change on the car. Only thing on the whole car which doesn't match other modern competition buggies is the use of old school "E" clips for all the pivot pins. Not a big problem - just I've got used to using captive hinge pins and screws. Ansmann do give you plenty of spares in the kit in case one pings off into orbit behind the TV during assembly...  Completed car minus front end and shocks - real carbon fibre saddle Lipo battery brace looks great (and is included as standard in the kit), but comes a little close to shorting the battery connectors for my liking - 1 minute fix with Dremel. Chassis is slightly more flexible than other buggy's graphite moulded tubs, but it stiffens up once the battery and brace are fitted. Plus flexible chassis's tend to make a car easier and more forgiving to drive, so can only be a good thing.  Shocks were the biggest surprise of the build - they are awesome! No lie, they are far better than the last set of Associated and Losi shocks I've built, if not quite up to the Japanese firms yet (I should point out I haven't built any of the new B4 shocks so am comparing these to 2008 era RC10 B4 Asso). The lower seals drop together in a cartridge like the RB5 and have a smooth consistent feel when assembled. The top end uses a bladder and has a small bleed hole in the cap to remove any excess oil / allow air to move in and out.  The kit doesn't include any other pistons but B4 ones fit. Pretty much any springs fit which is handy as the standard ones aren't ideal for high grip UK tracks. Another nice touch - small locator on shock eye stops spring seat from moving and helps stop it from coming off in a crash (how many spring stops do you see littered around a race track after a big meeting? Loads). Also Ansmann have used a black anodized alloy shock ball which allows free shock movement - better than the non-round crummy plastic moulded things covered in flash that some other kits come with... 
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#2
16-02-2011
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Looks very nice and easy to build. I have been waiting for a build thread on one of these to decide if I want one or not and I think I have just made up my mind!
 P.s. where did you buy it from?
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Team Associated B44FT ~ LRP SXX TC Spec ~ LRP Vector X12 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1251MG ~ Spektrum DX3S Schumacher Cougar SV Pro ~ LRP Sphere TC Spec ~ Losi Xcelorin 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1257 ~ Spektrum SR3100 ~ Spektrum DX3S In progress: Team Durango DEX410 V1-V4 hybrid ~ DESC410V2 ~ DEX210
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#3
16-02-2011
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Nice write up! These cars are fantastic for the money!! I love mine!!
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#4
16-02-2011
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Quote:
__________________
Team Associated B44FT ~ LRP SXX TC Spec ~ LRP Vector X12 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1251MG ~ Spektrum DX3S Schumacher Cougar SV Pro ~ LRP Sphere TC Spec ~ Losi Xcelorin 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1257 ~ Spektrum SR3100 ~ Spektrum DX3S In progress: Team Durango DEX410 V1-V4 hybrid ~ DESC410V2 ~ DEX210
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#5
16-02-2011
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Ive only run the car twice indoors and for one race outside so im still playing around with setups and weight... It will need weighting up, im guessing similar to an X6, maybe around 1650g total, ive not weighed mine yet though in truth!
Im personally running a 6.5 in mine... I can post my setup from the last time i ran the car if you would like? Was on med grip carpet indoors... Regards, Tom
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#6
16-02-2011
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Quote:
__________________
Team Associated B44FT ~ LRP SXX TC Spec ~ LRP Vector X12 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1251MG ~ Spektrum DX3S Schumacher Cougar SV Pro ~ LRP Sphere TC Spec ~ Losi Xcelorin 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1257 ~ Spektrum SR3100 ~ Spektrum DX3S In progress: Team Durango DEX410 V1-V4 hybrid ~ DESC410V2 ~ DEX210
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#7
16-02-2011
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Yeah, most of the weight ive got in mine is towards the front, the car generates alot of rear end grip... Ill post my setup after the football
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#8
16-02-2011
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Where is the best place to buy one of these?
__________________
Team Associated B44FT ~ LRP SXX TC Spec ~ LRP Vector X12 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1251MG ~ Spektrum DX3S Schumacher Cougar SV Pro ~ LRP Sphere TC Spec ~ Losi Xcelorin 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1257 ~ Spektrum SR3100 ~ Spektrum DX3S In progress: Team Durango DEX410 V1-V4 hybrid ~ DESC410V2 ~ DEX210
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#9
16-02-2011
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Mine was a madrat originally so i bought the conversion... Any modelshop should be able to get hold of one, i know apex models have them listed online but not sure if they have any in stock...
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#10
16-02-2011
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How does it compare against the mad rat?
__________________
Team Associated B44FT ~ LRP SXX TC Spec ~ LRP Vector X12 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1251MG ~ Spektrum DX3S Schumacher Cougar SV Pro ~ LRP Sphere TC Spec ~ Losi Xcelorin 6.5t ~ Savox SC-1257 ~ Spektrum SR3100 ~ Spektrum DX3S In progress: Team Durango DEX410 V1-V4 hybrid ~ DESC410V2 ~ DEX210
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#11
16-02-2011
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Completely different car to drive, like the X6 compared to a B4... Probably fractionally slower over a lap but quicker over a race as its more consistant... Well, until you get to the top drivers who can drive anything consistantly...
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#12
16-02-2011
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Complete car piccies...
Rear suspension with optional hubs & hexes:  Front corner  Shell cut out is easy - marked very well. Bodyshell holes I had a small problem with, the dimples to mark the front hole is a couple of mm too far forwards and "pulls" the shell against the front shock tower. Annoyingly there is no mark for the aerial tube, & I c*cked it up whilst trying to guess where it should be.  Shell is good looking in a functional way, not a knock-your-socks-off gorgeous way. It'll never win a beauty contest but to my eyes is much better proportioned than the slightly frumpy Mad Rat shell.    It's a minor thing but all the R-clips are pre-bent and the bodyshell clips come with small rubber tags - more attractive than using tie wraps.. Not planning on using all three as I'm going to velcro the bodyshell on.
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#13
16-02-2011
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Optional Parts
Optional bits:
 Optional alloy 1 degree rear hubs are well made and look good, plus offer vertical roll centre adjustment with washers  Nice alloy servo mounts - no need for them, just look good and match the other bits.  Alloy clamp on wheel hexes  Alloy idler gear  Uprated (thicker) turnbuckles. Also have holes pre-drilled in the rod ends to allow access to the hex ball studs so you don't have to unclip the turnbuckle when changing roll centre holes  Alloy front bulkhead with brass insert  Rear alloy bulkhead  Front alloy brace (grey) and kit (blue) - optional part not needed!  Kit versus optional lightweight motor mount
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#14
17-02-2011
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Dear i have the rear hubs 1° too and the wheel hex, but i putt the wheel and block (visée in french) she can't turn ... but if i putt the pastic one, or the rear hubs alu 0° i haven't this problem!
Did you have the same, or another guys, and what did we can do? thanks
__________________
Sorry if i don't speak english very well ... I'm french http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Ma...r_home_100.jpg http://www.racing-cars.com/
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#16
17-02-2011
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What car have u got??
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#17
17-02-2011
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Quote:
__________________
 Robert Jaques, Schumacher Racing KC, K2. Team Associated SC5M "The Japanese Sniper" Team Autocare & Cycles
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#18
17-02-2011
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Quote:
There was someone talking about the alloy hubs a while ago. The problem they had was not being able to get the bearing in one of them whereas the other hub they had no problems. Could be a manufacturing error, and not just an ansmann one because I had some rayspeed hubs that on one side the bearing fitted perfectly and on the other they were a nightmare to get in/get out. Could be you have got an out of tolerance hub?
__________________
Robert Jaques, Schumacher Racing KC, K2. Team Associated SC5M "The Japanese Sniper" Team Autocare & Cycles
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#19
17-02-2011
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My right hand side rear alloy hub was fine, however the left hand side alloy hub was a bit tight. The solution is to add a small metal shim between the two bearings (doesn't matter which one you pick). It's now runs freely.
The alloy hexes I got came with small shims, which I originally put between the hex and the outer bearing. I ended up not using them as they're not required (kit doesn't come with any as standard) and they mean you have to be careful fitting the hexes as they can bind a bit. Quote:
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#20
17-02-2011
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Quote:
www.concept-racing-rc.com
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Ansmann Racing
Linear Mode
