Baldre/Durga DB01

shanks · #1 06-02-2009

Hi all

Couple of questions if i may:-

1) Where can i buy hop-up parts for my Baldre? already got slipper clutch - looking for CVD's - which i read are necessary?

2) Any ideas why i have a loud screeching type noise coming from drivetrain? is it my slipper clutch just slipping, have i got pinion to spur mesh wrong?

Any help appreciated .......

jimmy · #2 06-02-2009

pinion/spur can cause screeching sure - the slipper wouldn't really make a noise like that but the diffs sure might (rear one in particular) so make absolutely sure the diff isn't slipping. Some people test that by holding the drivetrain and one wheel - then spinning the other. I prefer to hold the car on my lap whilst spinning the spur with my thumb to see what slips first.

I didn't use any CVD's on my Durga, so no it's not absolutely needed - at the front it might be a good idea and will certainly cut down on the horrific noise when turning - but like I said it's OK without as long as you use the provided foam spacers.

DCM · #3 06-02-2009

the noise, if the screeching gets louder as the speed builds, then you are meshed too tight, if it is when you power out of the corner, you will need to check diff and slipper settings.

shanks · #4 06-02-2009

Jimmy

Thanks for the reply pal

I will have a check of the diffs when i get home - just got back into rc cars so still on a sgteep learning curve at the moment!

If the diff does slip does that mean it is knackered and needs replacing?

Small foam spacers you mention are those the ones that go on behing the drive shaft end?

Again cheers for reply - a little advice off here saves ages trying to work things out !!

As usual all a rush to get the car ready for next sunday at bury metro!!

shanks · #5 06-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

the noise, if the screeching gets louder as the speed builds, then you are meshed too tight, if it is when you power out of the corner, you will need to check diff and slipper settings.

Cheers pal much appreciated - only just got back into rc cars so on a steep learning curve at the mo!!!! - hopefully will be all ready for the 15th at bury metro - ta again

SidewaysLS4 · #6 06-02-2009

Tamiya slipper pads are loud. So if your diffs are ok, Associated B4 pads are much quieter

Spoolio · #7 06-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanks

If the diff does slip does that mean it is knackered and needs replacing?

Not necessarily, you may be OK just tightening the 2mm adjuster screw after you pop the driveshaft out, give it a go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanks

Small foam spacers you mention are those the ones that go on behing the drive shaft end?

The little red bung things? Yup them's 'em.

Mine screamed a bit when it was new (and correctly meshed) but it got much quieter after about 5 minutes running in.

Murdadock · #8 26-02-2009

So that screamin' demon noise coming from the rear could cause a few issues. Like an all but disintegrated diff gear. So what would have caused this? Too tight, too loose, belt too tight, slipper too tight?????? help me out here guys.

Hog · #9 26-02-2009

Rear diff too loose - I did the same thing at Petit RC with my slipper set too tight and making the rear diff slip before the clutch.

The balls heat up and melts the pulley - I've now fitted TRF diff halves which should help too.

DCM · #10 26-02-2009

chances are, the glue bond broke, on the rear diff plate. Use this opportunity to buy the 501X diff halves and ceramic balls, won't get this problem again

CAClark · #11 26-02-2009

My Durga was horrendously noisy when it was first built, and I think I asked about it on here at the time, but it did seem to bed in and settle down in the hour or so total running time it's had (it's a real work horse, can ya tell? LOL).

Cheers!

jimmy · #12 26-02-2009

I fixed a melted diff exactly like that for someone at Bury the other week - it was caused by not gluing the rings to the plastic holders from what I could see.

DCM · #13 26-02-2009

also, if you nip the diff up to tight, it cracks the glue, so it slips again, so you nip it up... heat.... whoops...

pgeldz · #14 28-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

Use this opportunity to buy the 501X diff halves and ceramic balls, won't get this problem again

That's what I did from the start. Hopefully I won't have any issues...

- Paulie

shanks · #15 02-03-2009

All

Done a littel more research since i first asked about noisy transmission in my db01.

Thanks to Jimmy for fixing my reay diff at bury the other week.

I have found the following advice on rear diff so thought id share it here:-

"when i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown oneas for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to dothe answer is simpleuse 501 outdrivesuse 10 ceramic balls2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build upuse tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut coversi ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prepi have never blown a tamiya diff building this wayps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!"

Hog · #16 10-03-2009

Everyone has their own ideas on how to build a perfect diff. Try it and see what works for you!

A.J. Gee · #17 11-03-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hog

Everyone has their own ideas on how to build a perfect diff. Try it and see what works for you!

Yeah exactly. I agree. Thats interesting about what he said: Using two steel balls one at 12 and one at 6. I might have to give that a try some time when i'm bored and see if it makes any difference. The steel balls seem a lil bit bigger than all of the ceramic balls that i have used. Anyone else find this to?

dimblum · #18 11-03-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by A.J. Gee

Yeah exactly. I agree. Thats interesting about what he said: Using two steel balls one at 12 and one at 6. I might have to give that a try some time when i'm bored and see if it makes any difference. The steel balls seem a lil bit bigger than all of the ceramic balls that i have used. Anyone else find this to?

How would two steel balls 'clean the track' or make the diff operate better? The only difference I can see is that the steel balls will get warmer than the ceramic balls. I am open to trying new techniques, but would like to know how this is better than running 100% ceramic?

Also, anti-wear grease in the thrust bearing sounds like a bad idea since that grease is so thick and sticky. The directions recommend diff grease (which is what I have been using). I would like to know how this helps the thrust bearing?

Again, I love trying new techniques. I just like knowing how this improves the diff. Thanks.

A.J. Gee · #19 11-03-2009

Yeah some good points there. I guess the old sang, " If it's not broke, then dont fix it" comes in to play here. I will stick to what i have set up now since i am now finally running the 501 halves. I agree about that anti wear - grease being too thick. I just used some diff grease as well.

DCM · #20 11-03-2009

hmmm... let me see, if you got a dark ring on the diff ring, but not a groove, thats a good thing, that dark ring is where the plate has hardened. I too don't see the point in fitting steel balls with Carbide or ceramic balls, just don't seem right to me.

Thrust race, I use the the grease that comes in the kit in there, which I think is the same as the AE grease.