Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[CAClark]

I know when I was after shocks, B44 shocks were no where to be found, and I got my TRFs from Stella.

Cheers!

[A.J. Gee]

Hey guys. I'm Just about to build a brand new diff using the metal outdrives. Just a question or two before the build. This might be a stupid question but, do i use CA glue for the metal rings? How good is the bond between the rings and the steel outdrives as opposed to the plastic to metal bond? Also, is it a good idea to scuff up the rings a bit and degrease em? I have all new parts for this build and i want it to come out as best i can. lol. Last question: Does the flat side of the thrust bearing go into the diff outdrive first? Thanks as always guys.

[DCM]

I didn't glue mine, and they ain't been a problem

[Spoolio]

Don't use glue on the ring/outdrive dude, I used a thin smear of grease and it works fine.

[A.J. Gee]

Thank you guy's very much as always. Im about to build them as i type this, so i appreciate the quick responses.

[A.J. Gee]

My last question about the Diff. Do you guy's bother using the A15 plastic shim. If so then i gotta do a thorough search through my part(s) boxes, or take it from the Diff that i have currently in the car. Maybe a metal shim would work in place of the plastic one. What's your thoughts guy's? Thanks.

[Spoolio]

Personally I used the plastic A15 part when I built up my second set of diffs with the 501X outdrives but then again I have a truckload of A-parts for some reason. I guess a metal shim would work as long as it is dimensionally the same size as the plastic part you are replacing.

[A.J. Gee]

I ended up finding the A15 ring and the build went great. I can't believe the difference that the metal out drives make. I also used some ceramic balls and all i gotta say is that the Diff is very very smooth, especially compared to the stock ones.. Thanks again.

[pgeldz]

Well fellas, after spending quite some time on the DB01 build its finally complete. The car went together surprisingly easy. Seemed like the parts count on this model was pretty low compared to other kits I've built.

If it doesn't rain tomorrow I plan on doing some shakedown runs at our track. I decided to use the Novak Havok Sport 8.5 instead of the Mamba Max 5700 combo I had in my DF03. I think it'll be a little smoother which might help on our loose, dusty track.

For now though, have a look at my '09 livery. I wanted something that looked aggressive, had high contrast, easy to repeat, didn't take days to mask, and minimal decals (which I make myself on waterslide decal paper). I'll be using this scheme on all my cars this year. Colors are Tamiya PS series spray cans - Colbalt Green, Flourescent Red, and White. Let me know what ya'll think...















- Paulie

[CAClark]

That looks lovely mate, and the Baldre shell actually likes decent, not really had such a good look at it before

Cheers!

[A.J. Gee]

Your car look's great my friend. And i agree with clark about the Baldre shell, although if not painted in a certain color scheme the shell can look horrible. The box art for example, in my opinion look's cheesy. Great job though.

[pgeldz]

Thanks fellas! Yeah, the box art does make the shell look kinda cheesy, ha ha.

I took some advice on this thread and clearanced the wing with the shock tower, instead of mounting it 5mm back to help aviod breakage.

We'll see what happens. Unfortunately it IS raining outside, so no shakedown for me today.



- Paulie

[dimblum]

I really like your design for the Baldre Shell. It's simple, yet clean and sharp. I also like that you went with non-standard colors that really complement themselves.

It reminds me of a vintage paint design, which I have a soft spot for.

Great work!

[mathsinstrument]

I just bought my DB01 and i'm new to electric buggies. Here are some initial questions and I hope they can be answered

1. Can anyone tell me what's the rear toe in angle? Are there any options for it?

2. The steering seems to have bump steer built into it, is it normal or my settings are wrong? Max droop, I get toe out, max bottom, i get toe in....

3. I bought the TRF Option Shocks and Springs. Are the rear springs from the TRF Option springs and the shock set longer than the stock ones? I can't seem to get the right ride height for the rear.... It's too high.....

[jimmy]

With the shocks you can either cut down the springs or take off the height adjusters. I ran my Durga indoors usually with the ride height adjusters taken off so the car sat low enough. Outdoors I don't think I'd usually want to go that low tbh.

The steering shouldn't have any real noticable bump steer no, don't have a durga anymore but I'd recheck your manual to make sure the steering is built correctly maybe?

No options for the rear toe afaik - unless Tamiya make some rear hubs with different degrees? I know they had prototypes but not sure if they are released or not. I think it's 3 degrees but I never worry about toe angles, there's so much more interesting stuff to setup

[mathsinstrument]

I removed the height adjusters and changed the lower ball end to the stock CVA ends.

I am chasing around setups to get it for medium bite carpet racing. During off power entry into the corner, the rear breaks loose. On power the buggy pushes through the corners.... Any solutions?
Front - Yellow springs, 1.3mm piston, 400 Shock oil
Rear - Red springs, 1.4mm piston, 250 shock oil
No roll bars.

[Spoolio]

Have a look at the setup pages, see if anything there is suitable? Mine is set up like this:

Springs - Tamiya red dot all round
Oil - 35wt all round
Front - 1 degree camber with kit hubs etc
Rear - 2 degrees camber
Roll bars - none

Running Schumacher minipins and a 6.5L motor it's fine, in fact its a bit too pointy but the back end never breaks away. I was told that the red dot springs were too stiff on the back purely because the ride height was a bit high. However, when I went to softer ones it kept sitting down on its outside rear which then lifted the front inside wheel off the track.

At the end of the day everybody's setup will be different depending on their driving style, it's just a case of experimenting to find something you are generally happy with then tweaking it to suit.

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by mathsinstrument

I removed the height adjusters and changed the lower ball end to the stock CVA ends.

I am chasing around setups to get it for medium bite carpet racing. During off power entry into the corner, the rear breaks loose. On power the buggy pushes through the corners.... Any solutions?
Front - Yellow springs, 1.3mm piston, 400 Shock oil
Rear - Red springs, 1.4mm piston, 250 shock oil
No roll bars.

I'd say you want tamiya blue front and yellow rear. Not sure what oil you're using, but I use AE 35wt front and 30wt rear with moulded pistons.
The rear breaking away - not sure how many or if you have any limiters in the rear end but possibly not enough droop? The only time I've really changed the rear droop was to take droop away to make the rear steer more.
I always used a one way and didn't really suffer understeer on power but possibly going to harder oil in the rear might help that?

Tamiya red all round? :O softer than a soft thing!

[mathsinstrument]

I agree with the additional droop. The rear was worse when i added the 3mm droop under the piston.
The next thing i'm gonna try is to thicken the shock oil. I'm using shock oil ratings in CTS as opposed to the common WTs.... I've attached a conversion table so that maybe you guys can know what i'm talking abt.

Next setup:
Front: Blue springs, 1.3mm piston, 400cts oil, -2 deg camber
Rear: Yellow springs, 1.4mm piston, 400cts oil, -2 deg camber
No limiters and no roll bars.

[DCM]

I have all the links in the kit position, with 1.5' camber rear and 2 on the front.

40wt 1.3mm up front, 35 1.4mm rear. I am using the original 501X shocks, which are shorter on the rear, and it worked fine, I am now running the Carbon rear tower, with the rear shocks mounted higher, and it is still good. I don't have a one-way in, just the double slipper, and thats on carpet, and I don't have any issue's with turn-in, but as it is 4wd, you got to drive it like you stole it.