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  #1  
Old 22-02-2011
nites nites is offline
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Default Nosram pearl v2 & speed passion v3 sensor problems

I need some help or info with my set up as i keep blowing sensor boards in the motor.
My set up is a nosram pearl ISTC version 2 and the motors are both speed passion v3's ( 5.5 turn and 6.5 turn). This is in a kyosho lazer FS1 with 16tooth pinion.
All appears to be working properly but i have just blown a 2nd sensor board in a speed passion v3 motor ( one is 5.5 turn and the other is 6.5 turn). I have now blown one sensor in each motor.
I keep dropping one sector in the motor so that if the motor stops in that sector/segment it will not start again unless i move it one sector/segment and then it runs ok again unless it stops in that sector/segment.
Also, when i run the car at any speed on the stand, the motor seems to stutter like a normal road car would if it was mis-firing, its certainly not smooth running so i wonder if this normal or if it points to a problem with the ESC.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as i want to start racing soon and dont want to have this problem on my first race night plus its expensive at £30 a pop!

Thanks Nites
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  #2  
Old 28-05-2011
SimonW SimonW is offline
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I have had this problem, mine blew a brand new SP V3 6.5 and it's a brand new speedo i got a while back as a warranty replacement, if it is connected to my losi xelorin 6.5 i can start the motor spinning with my finger and it will run, if i brake to a stop the motor will run up again if i let it coast to a stop it will lose it's position and will not run up again and beep at me. Can n e 1 HELP? Should i send it back with my blown motor aswell?
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  #3  
Old 28-05-2011
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Chequered Flag Racing Chequered Flag Racing is offline
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don't know if it's connect to the following on the Nosram site


Update your pearl version 2 speedo now!

1) pearl evolution & pearl istc version 2:
improved sensor handling algorithm. Fixes low speed stutter which some drivers experienced at times

2) pearl spec racing version 2:
• improved bootloading code, from v4.4 upwards faster & more secure updating
• adjusted Mode3 timing maps which decrease motor temperature drastically
• revised brake for sharper response


if you want them updating I have the USB link and would only ask you cover postage return for your esc
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2011
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BostonNelson BostonNelson is offline
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I'm having the same problem with one sector being damaged resulting in you having to push the car to get it started. I've noticed though that if I push the motor cable connector (in my case sector A) really hard it works just fine.

Is this something you can repair or is it just to bin it? I've taken it apart and can't see anything damaged by eye.
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2011
nites nites is offline
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Hi, i had no damage visible but did go through 2 brand new sensor boards in the motor before sending both the motor (speed passion v3) and speedo (nosram pearl istc) back to schumacher.
They checked them both out and confirmed that a F.E.T. (field effect transistor) in the speedo had gone bad and this was in turn blowing the sensor board in the motor.
Cut a long story short, they replaced the speedo with a brand new one and put a new sensor board in the motor and everything has ran perfectly since, even some big wipeouts racing wont make it skip a beat.
Good luck sorting yours and have the speedo looked at properly as it was impossible to find the problem myself. it blew sensorboards in 2 different speed passion motors.

Nites
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2011
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BostonNelson BostonNelson is offline
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Thanks for the input. Yeah I've heard it can be the esc causing the problem. I have a new sensorboard on the way so I will give it a last try. It did work fine with another SP motor and it's working when you push the back of the motor so I'm hoping my problem isn't the speedo. But we'll see.

Cheers
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  #7  
Old 18-08-2011
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BostonNelson BostonNelson is offline
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Well the new sensor unit didnt solve the problem. Instead my problem was that one of the male connectors in the can had lost contact with the copper windings (dont know the english word for it). So with a bit of tricky soldering its now fine again, for a while.
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