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#1
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TRF501X build
Since the "TRF501X in production" thread is becoming quite long, perhaps it is time to start some other threads about the car. Since I'm in the process of building mine, first one about the construction.
First : I'm not the first to notice, but the packaging of the TRF501 is not as logical as the AE or Losi cars i've build over the last years. Parts are not packaged together in building steps and you can have a hard time looking for the right screw, bearing, washer, etc. In older Tamiya cars, the bags were clearly identified and every part listed in the instruction manual mentioned the parts bag it was in. This is not the case in the TRF. On the other hand, the instructions are very clear and classic tamiya quality. Secondly : On constructing the slipper clutch, I noticed that it was quite easy to build it with a rather dramatic wobble of the spur gear. After 3 rebuilds, it was fine though. third : although the screws are definately better then with the ZX5, be carefull when tightening them and use a quality hex driver or you will round them. Starting on the diffs now. BTW, I noticed the manual doesn't mention the use of the bleeding holes on the shocks. |
#2
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Well, considering there seems to be a few members on here that have the 501, there seems to be a lack of finished painted bodies. Had anyone finished one yet?
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#3
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heh, maybe it is due to a painter taking a week off from painting over christmas
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#4
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Have you anything planned, bodyshell wise. Has anyone tried fitting an MR4-BX shell over the top of the TRF501X?
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#5
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The DI didn't have the labelled bags that the older Tamiya cars had.
Neo do you still have your DI? Or have you traded it in for an antique XX4? Elliott. |
#6
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you could probably get a BX shell to fit....
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#7
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Quote:
Back on topic. How is spares support for this buggy? I, myself, aint coming across a lot of spares on the net? Last edited by FifteenthNeo; 20-12-2006 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Cant spell today |
#8
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I already posted the link regarding my TRF501X build some days ago in the other thread...here it is again though.
The 501X has been built for some days already but today I posted the final photos. I have posted some comments along with many photos here: http://kentech.blogs.se
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http://kentech.blogs.se |
#9
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Generaly happy with the build, the only issues that Im left to deal with are getting rid of the nasty standard turnbuckles for Titanium ones, (there seems to be a world shortage at the moment) and getting the shell sprayed!! Although I think that I have a plan for that.
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#10
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Just uploaded a few pics of mine, unfortunately they were taken at the back of the shop where it's a bit dark. I've put it side by side with my DF-03 as a comparison. I've done a very similar paint job (fluorescent green backed with silver, and gunmetal) but haven't bothered painting the wing Unfortunately the other day while runnign the car around to try and bed in the gearing and the tyres it skidded at high speed and clipped a wall, breaking a front upright... I've asked one of my mates to order me a couple of parts so fingers crossed it'll be back up and running soon. Anyway, pictures...
I'll get another body some time and give it to someone who can actually paint... -Steve
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Name: Steve Description: Hairy Past: Schumacker Fireblade Evo Present: Tamiya DF-03 Future: Tamiya TRF501X |
#11
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Steve leave 'em that colour. It'll be fun watching you race outside on the grass at Faversham trying to see where they've gone!
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#12
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What tyres do you have fitted on your cars HairySteve? They look like something from the 80's
Cars look good mind, racing on grass is going to be interesting mind! |
#13
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Bathy those are Schumacker fullspike yellows, about the only things that work at the Faversham track (wooden floor).... I should be able to see where my car is on grass, the colour's bright enough and if I do lose it I'll just carry on driving til someone complains about me shunting them off the track... I'm looking forward to getting the 501 up and running in next years outdoor series, should be a laugh. I'm thinking of getting an X6 to run in 2WD as well, I find electric so much easier and more fun than nitro, no mucking around with engines or anything, just plug the battery in and off you go...
-Steve
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Name: Steve Description: Hairy Past: Schumacker Fireblade Evo Present: Tamiya DF-03 Future: Tamiya TRF501X |
#14
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Just completed my build...
The one tip I will give is watch the shim sizes. I built the spur with the wrong size and it was quite tight when seated. I rebuilt using the correct size and the spur is now very free. In fact the whole car will freewheel for a good couple of meters on my kitchen floor. Must say the build was very easy, just waiting for my Novak 5.5r to arrive. Oh and getting the body painted by a pro hopefully. Colin |
#15
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Sounds like I'll be rebuilding mine with less shims then What about belt tension, has anyone else noticed that the instructions settings are quite tight? One of my mates reckons I should go a bit looser on the belts, the guide pulleys on the centre gearbox should stop the belts jumping. Also has anyone figured out if the TRF uses 48 pitch or 0.5mod gearing yet? If it's definitely 48 pitch then I'll get some Corally long pinions on order for mine...
-Steve
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Name: Steve Description: Hairy Past: Schumacker Fireblade Evo Present: Tamiya DF-03 Future: Tamiya TRF501X |
#16
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Steve, judging by this link, they are 48dp
http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=2784 Merry Xmas |
#17
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What electronics setups are you guys running in your TRF501X's?
I need a bit of inspiration |
#18
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Cheers Neo, that's useful to know Looks like I'll be phoning Helger next week to see if they have any of those Corally pinions... Ramdrive, I'm running a KO 2133 servo in mine (with metal gears), an LRP Quantum Pro Reverse speedo, and a Spektrum micro receiver with capacitor. Seems to go well. I'm thinking of shoving a Novak GTB brushless in it, the 8.5 (27 turn equivalent) for indoor racing and the 4.5 or 5.5 for outdoor racing.
-Steve
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Name: Steve Description: Hairy Past: Schumacker Fireblade Evo Present: Tamiya DF-03 Future: Tamiya TRF501X |
#19
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Steve, I could be wrong, but isnt the 13.5R from Novak the 27T equivalent?
Dont hold me to it though. The 8.5 is a 15-17turn equivalent I think Last edited by FifteenthNeo; 24-12-2006 at 10:20 PM. |
#20
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Could be. I asked the CML rep last time he was in and he said it was the 8.5 but he may be wrong. The 8.5 is rated at 5800KV (5800rpm per volt I think) so that's very quick, so you may well be right about it being the 13.5 instead. I'll have a look on Novak's website, that's probably easiest...
-Steve EDIT Yep, I've just found http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...article-id=182 this info on the 13.5. I've also been reading about the other Novak motors and it sounds like the 5.5 and 6.5 are going to be best for the outdoor series next year... 5.5 for high traction (like Faversham's grass field) or 6.5 for loose dirt.
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Name: Steve Description: Hairy Past: Schumacker Fireblade Evo Present: Tamiya DF-03 Future: Tamiya TRF501X Last edited by HairySteve; 24-12-2006 at 10:34 PM. |
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