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  #1581  
Old 04-06-2013
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Originally Posted by Danny Harrison View Post
Hi Randy and fellow tekin users, Ive got to the point where Im pushing my redline 6.5 to the max outdoors and could still do with a little more punch in infield and speed down straight. Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

Would I get a little more from the gen2 5.5 you think? I dont want to go dual on it really as my 6.5 feels like a snail now in dual mode

Thanks. Likely ordering tomorrow regardless but would be nice for some feedback too.
Hi Danny

I always ran the 13mm rotors in the Gen1 motors for more torque although i haven't yet felt the need to on the Gen2s.

insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/electrical-equipment-and-accessories/motor-and-speedo-accessories/tt2273-5111031d84c18-details

I generally ran with standard motor timing and anywhere between 10 and 30 boost depending on the size and nature of the track.

Cheers
Kev
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  #1582  
Old 04-06-2013
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Originally Posted by InsideLineRacing View Post
Hi Danny

I always ran the 13mm rotors in the Gen1 motors for more torque although i haven't yet felt the need to on the Gen2s.

insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/electrical-equipment-and-accessories/motor-and-speedo-accessories/tt2273-5111031d84c18-details

I generally ran with standard motor timing and anywhere between 10 and 30 boost depending on the size and nature of the track.

Cheers
Kev
I notice the 6.5 has the 12.5mm rotor in. I think I fancy the 5.5 and 13mm. Just been juggling money to get it ordered today. Hoping to have it for oople series this weekend. 70 notes in paypal at this moment so keep an eye out for my order incoming very soon

Want to sway me to the 6.5t gen2 or not enough of an upgrade?
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  #1583  
Old 04-06-2013
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Is this in 4wd? I generally run 6.5 in my lazer and 7.5 in the RB6. I would say that is the best all round option. I used 5.5 at Eden Park national but it was quite a big track and it is quite rare that i change motors.
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  #1584  
Old 04-06-2013
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Originally Posted by InsideLineRacing View Post
Is this in 4wd? I generally run 6.5 in my lazer and 7.5 in the RB6. I would say that is the best all round option. I used 5.5 at Eden Park national but it was quite a big track and it is quite rare that i change motors.
Its in 4wd yeah. Its fine at most tracks, but occasionally Im lacking between apex's on punch, and an xb4 flew past me down the straight at Batley the other week which was nail in coffin. Its literally maxed out and I feel I can still use more power.

I'd just control the punch using the current limit on the 5.5, my throttle control is pretty good too. Would like the extra when I need it though.

Swaying on the 13mm rotor too though now. :/

Edit, Went for the rotor. Can always go for 5.5 if its still feeling too tame

Last edited by Danny Harrison; 04-06-2013 at 03:21 PM. Reason: got the rotor
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  #1585  
Old 09-06-2013
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I'm having heat issues with my durango 410. I'm using the rs pro and a thunder power 6.5 motor geared with 22 piniong at dual mode with 100 timing, current lim at 80 and no drag break. The esc has a fan on it and runs rather cool according to the leds, about 4 or 5 leds at most. However the motor is loosing power after about 3 min and eventually the car stops just after 5or 6 minutes and the esc shows thermal shutdown with led 1,3,5 flashing. So, can the esc shut down if the motor is getting too hot? I'm thinking of putting a fan on the motor as well. I have tried to gear lower but the car got soo slow. I was thinking of running in sensored mode, gear down and put on a little boost. I have cut the went holes in the body allready and I would prefer to keep the stock body.
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  #1586  
Old 09-06-2013
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Have you tried any other motors yet ??? Im currently running either a 5.5 or 6.5 Gen2 motor in my 410 and have had no issues with heat (also got a fan blowing over posts just for peace of mind). Running 23 pinion with 70 timing in dual mode (your 100 could be a bit too much when you get down to 6.5 motors. Have you always had this issue or since you have changed anything ???
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  #1587  
Old 09-06-2013
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I have tried my old losi motor and geared it with a 23 pinong and I had the same problem. I'm new to the car but I have the same esc motor setup as in my old xx4. I have afan at the esc posts so I guess the speedo is cool enough. I'll try less current limit and turn the timing down a bit.
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  #1588  
Old 11-06-2013
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I had a thermal with the new rotor in too. Put some holes in body which fixed it. Gonna try gear down, but straight speed is bang on

I couldnt do much hotwire tinkering as I only had my smart phone and no laptop hint, hint
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  #1589  
Old 11-06-2013
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Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

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  #1590  
Old 11-06-2013
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Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

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I dont get it, sarcasm? I put a new rotor in, its running with less timing on can and 15 boost. Constructive reply is always a good though, thanks
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  #1591  
Old 11-06-2013
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Originally Posted by magnus View Post
I'm having heat issues with my durango 410. I'm using the rs pro and a thunder power 6.5 motor geared with 22 piniong at dual mode with 100 timing, current lim at 80 and no drag break. The esc has a fan on it and runs rather cool according to the leds, about 4 or 5 leds at most. However the motor is loosing power after about 3 min and eventually the car stops just after 5or 6 minutes and the esc shows thermal shutdown with led 1,3,5 flashing. So, can the esc shut down if the motor is getting too hot? I'm thinking of putting a fan on the motor as well. I have tried to gear lower but the car got soo slow. I was thinking of running in sensored mode, gear down and put on a little boost. I have cut the went holes in the body allready and I would prefer to keep the stock body.
What batteries are you using?
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  #1592  
Old 11-06-2013
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I have IP5400 (60C). Come to think of it, I have changed batteries since I ran the xx4 last year. I used to have a set of 2 year old IP 4200s in that one so that might have something to do with it. I also realised I could cut the back of the side scoops to let more air out and if that's not enought, I have a Jconcept body on the way that might do the trick.
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  #1593  
Old 12-06-2013
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How many mah's are you using after a run? If the batteries have a weak cell you may be hitting voltage cut off slightly too early.
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  #1594  
Old 12-06-2013
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Oh I don't know really. I've never checked.

I took it out for a little testdrive last evening and I could run easily for 8 minutes. It was a little slower the last minute but I think it was ok. It was on a grassfield with rather high grass and lots of full throttle so I'd guess that would generate quite some heat. I had cut the rear went holes and went down to current limit 70. I still had the fan on the esc and it just went up to 4 or 5 leds (like before) right after I pulled the car over to check. I did notice however that the more leds came up after a while when the car stood still with the fan still on.

Anyway, it seems to be working now so I'll leave it there. Thanks for all advices and help.
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  #1595  
Old 13-06-2013
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I have afan at the esc posts so I guess the speedo is cool enough.fiberglass pool company pa
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  #1596  
Old 17-06-2013
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It was a little slower the last minute but I think it was ok. It was on a grassfield with rather high grass and lots of full throttle so I'd guess that would generate quite some heat.fire damage restoration san diego
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  #1597  
Old 18-06-2013
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Default Turbo timing

I know this is not a Hobbywing section but bear with me. The principles of the esc software seem on the face of it largely similar to the Hotwire in the sense of boost and turbo. My issue is that when I run the same settings on the Tekin in 4wd as i do on the HW in 2wd, that the same effect does not seem to happen. The motor in 4wd is Novak 6.5 and my Hotwire settings (V223) are sensored and zero boost with 20 degrees of turbo timing. Gear ratio of around 10:1 in Durango 410. Now it is quickish but seems to lack top end. It does not seem to have a 'step up' as you would expect with 20 degrees of turbo dialled in. The can timing is set to zero but i have tried it more advanced too. On the bench with no pinion I cannot detect any change in pitch at full throttle when the turbo timing should be kicking in (which you can doing the same with HW). Question is it most likely to be software, hardware or motor related? Sensor cable seems ok with the test with the 3 lights on the esc.

Any thoughts.

Cheers
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  #1598  
Old 18-06-2013
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Originally Posted by carborush View Post
hi,
my tekin RS is doiing wierd stuff :
i updated to the latest 238 software and it got stuck
it took me 5-6 update tries to get it recognised and connected on the hotwire/pc again, eventually it connected.
after that it was working, except for the speed :
it's making the car run at least half the speed compared to before the 238 update with exactly the same settings and engine
i'm running a tamiya 17t sensorsless engine on a touring chassis
so the esc was setup in dual mode, timing advance max
I did notice that the start and end RPM displayed with a few digits missing
eg. 20000 became 2000, 8000 became 800 in the display
this was also very wierd

So shall I revert to the previous update of the esc software?
Is my tekinRS faulty ? why ?
hi guys any suggestions on this ? anyone ?
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  #1599  
Old 18-06-2013
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Default Tekin RS Pro with Team Wave Eclipse 13.5

Does anyone know of any issues running a Team Wave Eclipse 13.5T motor on a Tekin RS ESC with 1S Lipo? We just get no response from motor at all and yet put a tekin 10.5 in and all works ok so esc must be ok. We have tried more than one Eclipse (including know working motor from another car) and same result.
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  #1600  
Old 18-06-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pugboy View Post
I know this is not a Hobbywing section but bear with me. The principles of the esc software seem on the face of it largely similar to the Hotwire in the sense of boost and turbo. My issue is that when I run the same settings on the Tekin in 4wd as i do on the HW in 2wd, that the same effect does not seem to happen. The motor in 4wd is Novak 6.5 and my Hotwire settings (V223) are sensored and zero boost with 20 degrees of turbo timing. Gear ratio of around 10:1 in Durango 410. Now it is quickish but seems to lack top end. It does not seem to have a 'step up' as you would expect with 20 degrees of turbo dialled in. The can timing is set to zero but i have tried it more advanced too. On the bench with no pinion I cannot detect any change in pitch at full throttle when the turbo timing should be kicking in (which you can doing the same with HW). Question is it most likely to be software, hardware or motor related? Sensor cable seems ok with the test with the 3 lights on the esc.

Any thoughts.

Cheers
You really don't want turbo on the tekin with a 6.5 motor. Take it off, use boost instead and gear it for the top end you require.
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