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  #21  
Old 02-02-2015
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Bearings. The single most boring subject in the world.
I fit mine, then about 6 months later I replace them (or earlier if I run outside, which I don't)
The cost of 2x cans of WD40 = a whole bearing kit!
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  #22  
Old 02-02-2015
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Whenever I fit new bearings, I flush them first with motor cleaner and then put some motor bearing oil (very very thin oil). For me this lets the bearing run as free as possible. The caveat to this is that I have to flush and re-oil more often, but I don't mind that.

Very good advice from Slow One
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  #23  
Old 13-02-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Col View Post
Bearings. The single most boring subject in the world.
I fit mine, then about 6 months later I replace them (or earlier if I run outside, which I don't)
The cost of 2x cans of WD40 = a whole bearing kit!
Yep, spot on. Just replace them, not expensive to do these days.
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  #24  
Old 14-02-2015
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WD40 will actually make things worse , its a de greasant, it will flush all the goodness out make em notchy and youll never get them running right.
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  #25  
Old 16-02-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren Boyle View Post
There is some fantastic advice and information from AVID RC (widely regarded as one of the industries very best bearing supplier).......
Sorry, I have to take issue with this claim:
Quote:
Originally Posted by avids marketing department
evolution (RSZ): Avid invented this seal make up in 2003 to offer the best of both worlds.
I spent a year back in the early 90s converting a good number of industrial mixers to metric sized bearings. All of them used this seal make up that avid "invented". Some of the machines were already 30 years old....

Some with a pressurised internal oil feed (as per the drilled hubs up there ^^^^^) some that needed a regular refill with grease.
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  #26  
Old 18-02-2015
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Hi,

I race at TORCH so know what its like when the track is wet and horrible

For me, when I get home from the meeting I strip all the bearings out of the cars (my 2 boys and mine) and throw them all in a plastic lid full of WD40. I found that blasting them with either WD or GT85 can just force the water around the bearing rather than out of it. I then leave them in there for a few hours. I find that that tends to get all the water out of them. Once that's done I normally throw them all into another lid which I have full of std 3in1 oil and them leave in there till I rebuild the cars. Normally when I get round to it a few days later. This allows the oil to seep into the bearing. Using this method I haven't had one seize on me yet. Its really keeps them in good condition.

As one of the other posts mention, once a bearing starts to feel crunchy its already too late as the shell has probably started to pit with tiny rust holes. It may work for a time but once the dreaded red starts to eat the shell its only going to end up one way.

Anyway, that's what I do and it works for me.

Toby
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  #27  
Old 18-02-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h0m3sy View Post
Bearings. The single most boring subject in the world.
I fit mine, then about 6 months later I replace them (or earlier if I run outside, which I don't)
The cost of 2x cans of WD40 = a whole bearing kit!
WOW, where do you buy your bearings. 2x WD40 = £7 (average) a whole bearing kit for my car is about £26. Even to replace the 12 that are "external" and are liable to get wet still equates to about £12 - £15

either that or you got some damn expensive WD40


Toby
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  #28  
Old 18-02-2015
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http://www.rcbearings.co.uk
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  #29  
Old 18-02-2015
mattr mattr is offline
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2wd or 4wd.
There's only really 4 bearings on a 2wd that'll suffer.
4wd is a whole different pile of rusty water.
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  #30  
Old 18-02-2015
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Originally Posted by h0m3sy View Post
+1 - great value and great quality
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  #31  
Old 18-02-2015
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I flush out with brake cleaner then use sewing machine oil. Has always worked well for me and very cheap from any sewing shop.
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