SkyRC Toro TS 120A - Page 9

neallewis · #**161** 15-10-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by rutt

Does anyone know how to spot a fake version of this.
I bought one was happy with it but it stopped working last night in only its second meeting , barely 30 mins in total.
It was an eBay purchase which I now think was a mistake

I'm not sure that they are fakes, just a major quality control problem..
I've known of three recently purchased toros that have gone up in smoke on first use, purchased from different sources. One from Schumacher via a major UK model shop, and others from banggood.
All of mine (5) have been great.

neallewis · #**162** 15-10-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by bomber

Neal, I have just put this in my 2wd as my faithful R10 has just died, I'm having trouble getting it to be smooth, it is lighting up the rear wheels up even with not a lot of throttle making the car a absolute handful compared to the Orion, my settings are

Punch rate switch 50%
1st stage punch very weak
2nd stage punch weak
Throttle dead band 80us (Sanwa Radio)
Boost OFF
Turbo 10 degree
all other turbo settings standard

Running a Orion VST2 6.5

Sorry Bomber just seen this...

Move your punch rate switch to 1%, which helps move the step point I was feeling away from throttle mid point.
Punch stages are effectively a current limiter. I run both set to medium (or 15) depending on software version.
I found having too much current limit (punch very weak) produced a harder to drive and steppy feel to the throttle combined with the 50% switch point.

Throttle deadband, I reduced this to 50us with my sanwa after experimenting. This means there is less stick movement before the wheels start to turn. Recalibrate after altering this. It's a big help with the feel.

I have a throttle expo curve on a switch on my sanwa so can switch in if I feel I want to smooth out the bottom end for slipper tracks

Turbo on a 6.5 is a bit much for me, but check your delay time at full throttle that it kicks in. Too soon and it can kick in at the wrong point and upset the car.

I don't run boost, seems a bit manic when I've tried it.

Hope that helps you or someone else.

Scott_83 · #**163** 28-11-2015

Has anyone used this one blinky touring car

ayske1 · #**164** 29-11-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

Sorry Bomber just seen this...

Move your punch rate switch to 1%, which helps move the step point I was feeling away from throttle mid point.
Punch stages are effectively a current limiter. I run both set to medium (or 15) depending on software version.
I found having too much current limit (punch very weak) produced a harder to drive and steppy feel to the throttle combined with the 50% switch point.

Throttle deadband, I reduced this to 50us with my sanwa after experimenting. This means there is less stick movement before the wheels start to turn. Recalibrate after altering this. It's a big help with the feel.

I have a throttle expo curve on a switch on my sanwa so can switch in if I feel I want to smooth out the bottom end for slipper tracks

Turbo on a 6.5 is a bit much for me, but check your delay time at full throttle that it kicks in. Too soon and it can kick in at the wrong point and upset the car.

I don't run boost, seems a bit manic when I've tried it.

Hope that helps you or someone else.

I'm running the hobby king gen2 esc (which uses the same software layout) and did notice the dead band change after the firmware update.. Good to know about the change. Running high traction, on a tight track I'm sure could help a bit squeezing in that extra speed through constant throttling...

Scott_83 · #**165** 23-02-2016

Has anyone got this in a tc running blinky?

Joe_K · #**166** 24-02-2016

I used my TS 120A in my Mi5evo last year in blinky, was very good, very punchy. This was with a SkyRC Ares Pro 17.5T motor on about 3.2 FDR with 30 degrees motor timing. Not quite as fast top end as another guy at the club who was running Muchmore ESC & motor, but better through the corners.

Scott_83 · #**167** 24-02-2016

Ever had many problems with it getting too hot. Will be on both 17.5 and 13.5 blinky then modified when I have improved
And do you have the sky link.

Joe_K · #**168** 26-02-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott_83

Ever had many problems with it getting too hot. Will be on both 17.5 and 13.5 blinky then modified when I have improved
And do you have the sky link.

No issues at all. Never even gets warm. Never ran modified, 13.5 boosted is plenty fast enough for me.

Yes, I have both the program box and the Bluetooth module, both work fine, but prog box is necessary if you want to update firmware.

adon30 · #**169** 07-04-2016

Anyone had an issue with the Toro where it will not switch off when you hold the transmitter in the reverse position for several seconds??
I have one that does, one that doesn't and one that didn't and then exploded in smoke!
I'm a bit concerned about the one that isn't functioning correctly as it is a replacement for the one that blew up.

The other one I've had for over a year and has been absolutely fine.

neallewis · #**170** 07-04-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by adon30

Anyone had an issue with the Toro where it will not switch off when you hold the transmitter in the reverse position for several seconds??
I have one that does, one that doesn't and one that didn't and then exploded in smoke!
I'm a bit concerned about the one that isn't functioning correctly as it is a replacement for the one that blew up.

The other one I've had for over a year and has been absolutely fine.

Yeah. it's got newer software on it, and they removed this feature a few updates ago.

There was a bad batch run, but they seem to have gone now from UK distribution (Schumacher) and banggood, so replament should be OK ifnit hasn't gone pop first meeting.

adon30 · #**171** 08-04-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

Yeah. it's got newer software on it, and they removed this feature a few updates ago.

There was a bad batch run, but they seem to have gone now from UK distribution (Schumacher) and banggood, so replament should be OK ifnit hasn't gone pop first meeting.

Maybe if I try an older version of software then it will prove the function. The off switch is in an awkward place so it's useful for switching off. I haven't updated my original one so didn't know the option had gone. Only problem there then is I'm missing out on any other operational upgrades.
I thought it may have been a sensor fault in that the esc didn't know the motor wasn't operating. So therefore didn't think it was ok to switch off.
Maybe they'll bring the function back in future upgrades.

The replacement is within a hundred serial numbers of the one that went pop so fingers crossed on that one. It's a banggood one. Any idea on the serial numbers of ones that went pop?

neallewis · #**172** 08-04-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by adon30

Maybe if I try an older version of software then it will prove the function. The off switch is in an awkward place so it's useful for switching off. I haven't updated my original one so didn't know the option had gone. Only problem there then is I'm missing out on any other operational upgrades.
I thought it may have been a sensor fault in that the esc didn't know the motor wasn't operating. So therefore didn't think it was ok to switch off.
Maybe they'll bring the function back in future upgrades.

The replacement is within a hundred serial numbers of the one that went pop so fingers crossed on that one. It's a banggood one. Any idea on the serial numbers of ones that went pop?

I doubt it will come back to be honest, I don't miss it, as almost i never have full break set on my transmitter, adjusting to the required amount n practice, so it never worked anyway as full break needed to be held for 3 seconds.

no idea on serials sorry.

skyrc don't list older versions to download, only the latest. They don't do a change log/release notes either, I read changes in the versions from the Gforce change log, which is the same speedo.

bretts · #**173** 08-04-2016

Neal (Yoda)

I love this Esc. Thanks for the tips.

However my fan sounds like a jet. Is there an alternative or do i really need it with 8.5 in 2wd?

Ta
Brett

neallewis · #**174** 08-04-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by bretts

Neal (Yoda)

I love this Esc. Thanks for the tips.

However my fan sounds like a jet. Is there an alternative or do i really need it with 8.5 in 2wd?

Ta
Brett

Cheers Brett. I run a fan on mine with a 7.0 on high traction, but didn't with an 8.5 over the winter on our lower traction tracks.

Run yours without fan and check temps, both via touch and using the program box to read esc temp after the run.

The fans have bronze bushings, not bearings, hence the noise. Easy to replace with a higher quality fan. some of the branded fans are the same though, with a different sticker. I've found the orca, WTF and yokomo racing performer fans are best quality, which is reflected in the price.

mpg200 · #**175** 03-05-2016

Anyone else had a random failure of these?

I Have 3 of these, 2 have been faultless for a year or so. But I had one fail at York on Saturday. It had been fine the previous meeting when it was new, but let the smoke out this week and killed a phase. I am currently trying to repair it, but i'm gonna change all the FETs not just the failed phase. I have several other speedos to scavenge bits from.

Matt

neallewis · #**176** 03-05-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpg200

Anyone else had a random failure of these?

I Have 3 of these, 2 have been faultless for a year or so. But I had one fail at York on Saturday. It had been fine the previous meeting when it was new, but let the smoke out this week and killed a phase. I am currently trying to repair it, but i'm gonna change all the FETs not just the failed phase. I have several other speedos to scavenge bits from.

Matt

There was a QC issue with some recent batches. Where did you by it from? send it back.

mpg200 · #**177** 03-05-2016

Well now. I would be able to send it back if I hadn't taken it apart to paint it when I got it. Also I've then it apart again to fault find. So it looks like I'll take one for the team and do a full autopsy.
Micro board is still fine, still connects to pc via program card. This board houses the FET drive ICs and the BEC regulators, all still working fine.

Top board is the FET board which has 24 mosfets these are alpha omega AON6512 in a DQFN 5x6 package. This where I suspect the quality problem may be. I'm not a fan of alpha omega semiconductors. In a high current application such as this personally I would have specced an international rectifier part instead. But hey ho... The issue is as there are 4 fets in parallel for switching phase you only need one to fail for the whole stack to go.
So lesson.
Don't paint your speed controller

Matt

neallewis · #**178** 03-05-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpg200

Well now. I would be able to send it back if I hadn't taken it apart to paint it when I got it. Also I've then it apart again to fault find. So it looks like I'll take one for the team and do a full autopsy.
Micro board is still fine, still connects to pc via program card. This board houses the FET drive ICs and the BEC regulators, all still working fine.

Top board is the FET board which has 24 mosfets these are alpha omega AON6512 in a DQFN 5x6 package. This where I suspect the quality problem may be. I'm not a fan of alpha omega semiconductors. In a high current application such as this personally I would have specced an international rectifier part instead. But hey ho... The issue is as there are 4 fets in parallel for switching phase you only need one to fail for the whole stack to go.
So lesson.
Don't paint your speed controller

Matt

There may be a few blown ones about, perhaps you can collect a few and pull some fets to replace.

do International make a pin compatible part?

Yeah painting it may not have been the best move. what colour?

mpg200 · #**179** 04-05-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

There may be a few blown ones about, perhaps you can collect a few and pull some fets to replace.

do International make a pin compatible part?

Yeah painting it may not have been the best move. what colour?

Unfortunately the copper lead frame of the failed FETS have fused with the PCB tracks also the PCB has started to de-laminate. So its in the bin for this one. (i'll keep the micro board it still works)
I do have a working FET board of an LRP SXX this has IRF5300 FETS with the same package, my plan was to transplant all 24 of them, but that's a no go having seen the destruction. I may be look at transplanting the whole board to make a hybrid just as a project, close to the same size just need to sort out the pinout of each to see if i can 'make it fit'.

I painted it metallic black, looked good till it died.

Matt

Danosborne6661 · #**180** 04-05-2016

If anyone has a knackered Toro 120a please PM me!

I completely busted the casing on mine after a heavy crash, so if you've blown yours and want to sell it on so I can reshell mine let me know please!

Thanks all!