rebuilding diff in db1

[forbesy]

ive just rebuilt my diff in my db1 using new diff plates, new gears, new thrust race, new ceramic rudebits balls, but it doesnt want to stop slipping untill i do it up tight which i havent done as i thought it would snap the thrust race!! ive ran it in twice too but that really hasnt helped

any ideas pls chaps.........

[deano43]

Originally Posted by forbesy

ive just rebuilt my diff in my db1 using new diff plates, new gears, new thrust race, new ceramic rudebits balls, but it doesnt want to stop slipping untill i do it up tight which i havent done as i thought it would snap the thrust race!! ive ran it in twice too but that really hasnt helped

any ideas pls chaps.........

i have had this issue but what i found was that backing off the screw the tinnest amount make a difference to adjusting the diff i initially backed off the the diff 1/4 of a turn and it felt like it would fall apart so i tightened it up fully and backed off in very small amounts until it felt ok i bet in the end it was backed off about a 1/4 of a 1/4 of a turn if that makes any sense , oh this was on a rb6 which i believe is the same diff if so then try that. They do seem very sensitive but very smooth

[forbesy]

all sorted now

thanks..........

[RogerM]

Glad you got it sorted. Kyosho use a relatively soft diff spring to keep the adjustment range as large as possible. So it is imperative that a new one is exercised well before use.

Deano, I never recommend tightening up a diff fully & backing off as you can damage the plates if you go too far. I build the diff then tighten till you have to use noticeable effort to turn the gear whilst holding the outdrives stationary. Once run in @ 1/3rd throttle for 2mins per side I normally find its just a small adjustment to get it right from there.

[deano43]

Originally Posted by RogerM

Glad you got it sorted. Kyosho use a relatively soft diff spring to keep the adjustment range as large as possible. So it is imperative that a new one is exercised well before use.

Deano, I never recommend tightening up a diff fully & backing off as you can damage the plates if you go too far. I build the diff then tighten till you have to use noticeable effort to turn the gear whilst holding the outdrives stationary. Once run in @ 1/3rd throttle for 2mins per side I normally find its just a small adjustment to get it right from there.

Thanks for the heads up roger I have always built them like that then backed off normally 1/4 of a turn I don't mean proper tighten it I mean tight as just when you feel it stop and I normally get nice diffs but having said that 1. You have a vast knowledge of cars it seems reading your posts 2. These are not run of the mill cars but the adjustment window on kyosho is a lot less than say schumacher cars and not a bad thing just different but when I replace the diff balls with ceramic ones I will certainly do it your way to make sure I don't damage anything

[RogerM]

The issue is ceramic balls are much harder than any manufactures diff plates.

I've always found the Kyosho diffs have a great range of adjustment, much more and it leads to inconsistency of setting build to build. Generally from fully locked to slightly slipping is about 2/3rds of a turn on the driver (although I hold the driver still and rotate the wheel to get best feel)