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#141
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Looking good Sicotange. I love the body shell and i think it looks very nice in yellow. Now you just got to put a manly motor in her mid section and a few hop ups and your good to go.
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#142
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Disregard the hop ups, it looks like you already got some on there. What brand of shock are those?
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#143
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Thanks for the positive comments!
The shocks are those from my TRF501X. They are very smooth but I haven't had the time yet to test the car. As for the motor, i have a good GM dr.speed brushless (9T) that I will try very soon. |
#144
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Durga Instructions
Has anybody who has a Durga looked closely at the instructions. By this I mean on page 7 it says "if you are using a more powerful motor they advise a slipper clutch Part # 51018. If you then turn to the end where all the part numbers are shown and look down at the hop ups they quote both the front one way and the slipper as part # 54017. On the outside of the box it quotes 54018 as being the slipper part # which i assume is the correct one. I guess they had the office boy make up the instruction sheets. I agree below that the hop up parts shown seem to be expensive. Still its early days. Ill look on ebay in a while. Also a member mentioned having a new body ordered. Is this the same as the one from Tamiya or is there an aftermarket body which would do. I cant paint worth a da** so would like a painted one. I like the yellow one mind you. It never occurred to me to paint mine a different colour than on in the instructions. Dah!!!!!. that what comes of being old!!!
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#145
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tamiya shells normaly come with enough stickers to allow you to just blast one colour with no masking, and use the stickers to make windows etc.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#146
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Quote:
Bloody annoyed, but not surprised!
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pm me bitch, or is it past your bedtime?
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#147
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yeah, and they still wonder why people including smaller shops, buy from HK....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#148
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Stellamodels has more than 10 Durga's in stock for a decent price right now.
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#149
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RC-Champ, car, slipper, EMS £105, cvd's are not yet released so I ordered a set of yukky yeah racing 501X cvd's to try.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#150
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Take a look at the picture below:
Has anybody else noticed that you can plainly see the belt between the steering bellcranks I thought this car was supposed to be sealed? Has this person left out a part? My pre-order from rc champ is ready, but I don't want the car if it's not sealed
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#151
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Check out the build/first impressions thread at Tamiyaclub forums, They make mention of the belt in regards to being sealed.
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#152
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The belts are sealed. The person that builded this car has forgotten to install a part that is "sandwiched" between the lower bulkhead and the big belt covers. Take a look at this picture. It's very difficult to see but I can assure you that the whole transmission is well covered. I will make a better shot of it soon.
http://sicotange.skyrock.com/photo.h...cle=1375001892 |
#153
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Thanks!
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#155
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Quote:
I don't get to race the 501 too often due to the maintenance aspect (although it's only fine dust that gets inside the car) I also want to switch back to stick packs only as I race touring cars too, so the Durga hopefully fits both these requirements, plus I will already have the good bits from the 501 to put on it ie: shocks, CVD's etc
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#156
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I've never understood what people have against saddle packs. They also fit in stick pack cars without any mods.
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#157
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because in one car, saddles work, in a tc, it just makes it very untidy, plus the cells generaly run pretty close to the belts to. I am in Benders train of though there... means I don't have to have two different sets of batteries (yes, I know I am fussy)
I have a tracking number for my durga and slipper unit... the cvd's are coming from elsewhere
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#158
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But with current best practise being that you should equalise before charge, stick packs might not be great.
G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#159
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when we mean sticks, we means side by side, no loop wire to form saddles G Man....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#160
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So its tidier because you don't have the link wire?
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
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