DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues - Page 11

Cream · #**201** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmo

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

Is there a thread in any of the plastic parts?
If not, Screw the bolts into the aluminium brace tilll tight, slide the bolts through all the plastice parts, tighten nut on top to hold everything together.
If there is a thread in any of the plastic parts then there is an issue. As there is no chance the thread will match up in both the aluminium brace and any thread in the plastic sections.

ryanlownie · #**202** 19-10-2011

Finished building mine, hats off to all the designers and developers involved. Some great ideas on the car and it went together as good as the best.

It's only something minor but when looking at the servo mounts I liked the idea that they appear to be very easy to undo and allow you to remove a servo in 2 screws (+ the horn screw). However I've noticed that the screw is marginally blocked by the front brace, might be something worth taking a file to before assembly?

Tweaky · #**203** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmo

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

Yes i noticed that, I assembled it all nice and tight with the spacers in, from underneath, then i ended up cutting the top off the anti roll bar plate, where the Nyloc nuts are housed, and then tighten the Nylocs down with a spanner.

fmo · #**204** 19-10-2011

The top plastic part has recesses retaining the nuts. As you said, these will never line up with the aluminium brace. Probably just cutting off the plastic retainers will solve the issue.
Frank

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cream

Is there a thread in any of the plastic parts?
If not, Screw the bolts into the aluminium brace tilll tight, slide the bolts through all the plastice parts, tighten nut on top to hold everything together.
If there is a thread in any of the plastic parts then there is an issue. As there is no chance the thread will match up in both the aluminium brace and any thread in the plastic sections.

Cream · #**205** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmo

The top plastic part has recesses retaining the nuts. As you said, these will never line up with the aluminium brace. Probably just cutting off the plastic retainers will solve the issue.
Frank

Yeah going off your image you only have the three possible options. clear the threads out of the aluminium brace , remove the retaining section of the top block or 3rd if the caphead is small enought to fit in the retaining hex put the bolt in from the top and use the thread in the aluminium brace to hold it all together.

fmo · #**206** 19-10-2011

Thank you for your reply.
The third solution was also my first thought, but the rear bumper is fixed through the screws underneath the aluminium brace. I'll check if I would need the threads in the aluminium brace for a rear motor configuration, if not they are virtually already gone...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cream

Yeah going off your image you only have the three possible options. clear the threads out of the aluminium brace , remove the retaining section of the top block or 3rd if the caphead is small enought to fit in the retaining hex put the bolt in from the top and use the thread in the aluminium brace to hold it all together.

fmo · #**207** 19-10-2011

Actually the threads in the rear aluminium brace are needed for rear motor.

So, a fourth solution comes into my mind - I could remove the lower thread of the long screws which would cause the screw tighten to the aluminium brace once completely screwed in. If I would remove this threads the screw could still turn freely in the aluminium brace and the entire rear block would be compressed by the top nuts.

Chris Doughty · #**208** 19-10-2011

threads are indeed used when in rear motor config.

what I would suggest is rotate the loc-nut by one flat in the captured rollbar holder and try again, and keep doing that.

rotating that will alter the position that the thread in the nut starts to engage.

once you have found the optimum position glue the loc-nut into the rollbar holder

Cream · #**209** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmo

Actually the threads in the rear aluminium brace are needed for rear motor.

So, a fourth solution comes into my mind - I could remove the lower thread of the long screws which would cause the screw tighten to the aluminium brace once completely screwed in. If I would remove this threads the screw could still turn freely in the aluminium brace and the entire rear block would be compressed by the top nuts.

Oww captivated bolts, Now you are getting fancy

Origineelreclamebord · #**210** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyM

BEWARE!!!

I just reamed out two holes on the wing using the dimple marks. They are too far apart (at least 5mm). So don't use the dimples as a guide.

Perhaps the wing mounts are wider on an RM build and the dimples are for that configuration?

I really wish I read that before I reamed those holes

By peculiar coincidence the holes have exactly the right distance to be fitted on my TRF201 though

Anyhow, I hope the wings will be available soon, and seperately from the body?

TonyM · #**211** 19-10-2011

As I intend to keep mine mid-motor I drilled the alu holes out. Now tight as a rat up a drainpipe.

mattybucks · #**212** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

I really wish I read that before I reamed those holes

By peculiar coincidence the holes have exactly the right distance to be fitted on my TRF201 though

Anyhow, I hope the wings will be available soon, and seperately from the body?

Get an LMR electra wing on it!!

Robocop · #**213** 19-10-2011

Happy now as everyone said durango will sort out any problems with the car and they are like to say sorry if anyone got a little peaved with me but my first durango and i had a few problems with it but like i say all done.
Like to say thanks to mb models (i did not buy the 210 off them)but i have now purchased a 410 too and they are going to ensure durango do sort my 210.
Thanks happy man now

jonathan may · #**214** 19-10-2011

good to hear good thing about TD customer services 210 is my first durango too.

Sheepdog · #**215** 19-10-2011

All built, just waiting for my speedo to turn up, wire up and test everything then some track time, a superb crafted RC car, my first TD and a pleasure to build, big thanks to you all for the hints and tips, made things so much easier, glad you liking it a bit more Robocop and great shout on a top thread!!

captainlip · #**216** 19-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattybucks

Get an LMR electra wing on it!!

These look smart do you stock them?

I'm tired of bending wings and gutted can't get a Tresrey replacement

sunbeam · #**217** 19-10-2011

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.

OneKiwi · #**218** 19-10-2011

Ran mine today for the first time, no real probs with the diff.
Real happy with the car so far but didn't have time to convert the 22 to MM to run a comparison, will do that next time.

Great build well done TD

fmo · #**219** 19-10-2011

that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done...

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunbeam

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.

sunbeam · #**220** 19-10-2011

"that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done..."

It was your idea fmo
I just followed your advice, so thank you