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#21
13-03-2009
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when you build the diff, and assembled the rear end, run the motor up to about 15%, hold one rear wheel for 10 seconds, then hold the other side for 10 seconds, this should bed everything in, turn the car off, and re-check the diff, it may need nipping up, then should be ready to rock and roll
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! 
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#22
13-03-2009
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Wongy, I'll just "manage" your expectations before you get too excited. Fitting the 501X parts is not a fit-and-forget exercise, you will still need to bed the diff in and adjust it initially or else it will probably go loose after a few minutes just like any other. Its not the fault of the car, it's part of the ball diff design. Mine needed a fettle after 5 mins running, then again after a full meeting but have not been touched since.
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#23
13-03-2009
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update
car just been ran with no issues  ran for about 10 minutes and i have just had to re-tighten the diffs on acceleration i can hear the diff slipping which i assume is normal on original slipper clutch 3mm setting or can it be tightened for less slip it seems i have to feed the throttle in slowly to build up speed or the clutch just slips will using a 23t pinon overstress the drive train and motor?? As recommended by DCM im using the 17t pinon but its not quite as fast as expected once up to speed i mean its fast just not as fast as everyone seems to say it will be There is a vid on youtube of a guy running a 8.5 brushless in the db01 and this seems a lot faster then mine any ideas
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#24
13-03-2009
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Not sure what the kit slipper settings are suggested but with a decent motor on high grip the spring needs to be nearly fully compressed to stop it slipping. I ran my slipper loose enough to slip a little - probably tighter than you have it I guess tho.
I assume you meant slipper - not diff right? - your diff should never slip.
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. 
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#25
14-03-2009
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well i had just been running the car up and down the road outside the house
i mean i could hear the slipper clutch slipping. the diff's are fine. done up very tightly almost max. i would say 1/8 turn from fully tightened so if it its high grip i should set the slipper tighter??
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#26
14-03-2009
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you will learn what feels right, diff wise.... but if the slipper is slipping, tighten it up so it just slips on the initial few feet of hard acceleration.
If you are just messing in the street on tarmac, then you can gear up, but if you race, you will kill the car with heat if you over-gear it.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#27
14-03-2009
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30 minutes of bashing and the car remains intact
 usind 23t pinon now and the car id very fast but the motor gets a bit hot what the best thing to do to keep the speed up but making running a bit safer for the motor. its too slow on 17t pinon all i had to to was tighter up the rear diff a bit more when i got the car home for a quick inspection car is phenominal on gravel and short grass. loads of fun. standard set up is perfect for casual running and bashing. car is so stable and handles bumps excellent thanks for all the advice and help guys
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#28
14-03-2009
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you can go down a couple of teeth on the pinion, and open up some of the vents on the shell too.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#29
16-03-2009
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Novak 6.5 gearing for a 4WD
Quote:
The sweet spot gearing with the stock 91T spur is a -19T- pinion. Novak recommends a 10:1 ratio, and this gearing gets you to 9.84:1 The motor should run about 48MPH unloaded with this gearing.. Actual speed will be slower due to traction, drag, weight, etc.. This gearing should let you run the motor at its best efficiency without overheating. Hope this helps.
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#30
17-03-2009
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I have a Durga with the Novak 6.5 and a slipper (which is only because the 5.5 wasn't in stock and I'm impatient
).I've driven it a fair bit since I installed it and nothing has gone wrong except breaking some parts in crashes. However, I've only driven on concrete and occasionally gravel. I suspect that running in grass or anything with massively varied grip would put a whole lot more wear on the diff. I really do need to upgrade to the 501 rear diff before I actually melt it.
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#31
17-03-2009
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Quote:
what is the difference between the 23t im running and 19t. how much difference in acceleration and top speed currently its fast enough to keep me entertained but any slower ill be bored  will hitting sweet spot just increase longtivity of motor ??
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#32
18-03-2009
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How to check gearing
Quote:
Happy to help.. The 'sweet spot' will both increase the longevity of the motor and ensure that you get maximum performance for the longest amount of running time (since you are not likely to overheat the motor). I will admit that I have overgeared on purpose even after doing the gearing math. The first motor I used was a Novak 17.5 so I could qualify to race in the "Stock" class at my local track.. Each race is only 5min long, so I overgeared a bit to get a little more top speed.. So long as I kept my runs at 5min, my motor did not heat up very much.. 8+ minutes and it would get pretty warm.. So sometimes it is OK to push your motor a bit so long as you watch it closely.. But knowing which pinion is best to start with saves a lot of guesswork. Your 23T pinion gives you a theoretical top speed of 58MPH, which is pretty darn fast. I have always wondered what the acutal speeds turn out to be once the motor is under load.. I currently do not know a way to measure accelleration using a math formula.. You get instant torque with electric motors, so your top speed can usually be reached in a second or two if you are running on pavement. --- I made a quick walkthrough for anyone that wanted to use gearchart.com. This should make it alot easier: This will help you target the -sweet spot- for gearing so you can get the most out of your motor without overheating... NOTE: The most important thing to make this work is that you have a good idea what your motor "RPM" is and also what the target "Gear Ratio" is for your motor. High end companies like Novak provide this information (as do other brushless motor manufacturers). I found it harder to find this info for brushed motors... Lets get started with a "real world" example for my Durga when I ran a Novak 17.5 brushless for Novice and Stock racing: 1. First lets go to www.gearchart.com and click "Gearchart Creator" on the upper left side of the screen 2. The "Select an RC Car" pulldown menu does not have the Durga, DB01, etc.. So select "Pan Car (10/12th scale)" and we will fill in the blanks 3. The "Transmission Ratio" is 2.055.. It is the same for "ALL" DB-01 cars. 4. Next enter your "Spur" and "Pinion" sizes.. I switched to an 81T Spur gear and 31T Pinion gear when I installed my 17.5 Novak since it was better suited for the slower motor 5. The "Plot Spur/Pinion" option with the "Middle" setting is fine. 6. Now click the "Gear Ratio" button.. The chart it builds will have key information to see if you will -burn up the track- (yeah) or -burn up your motor- (bummer). 7. In my case I needed to know what Novak recommended as the Gear Ratio for my motor.. I went onto Novak's website and pulled up their gearing recommendations: http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/b...r_gearing.html 8. It showed that a 4WD (my Durga) should target a "6" (or 6.00) gear ratio with their 17.5 motor.. My Spur and Pinion combo put me at "5.37" so I was a little overgeared for their spec.. I wanted to push my motor a little bit for more speed, so this seemed fairly safe for a shorter 5min runs.. If I wanted to be right on spec with the Novak chart, then I would gear down to a 28T Pinion since that would be "5.94" which is super close to 6.00.. Ok, so this told me that I'm not likely to turn my motor into a -molten ball of fire- by pushing it too hard.. Now I wanted to get a ballpark on how fast my car might go.. 9. The next part was "Rollout".. Rollout tells you how far your car will travel per motor revolution.. My Tire Diameter (measurement from one side of the tire to the other) was 85mm. It will likely be the same for you and most tires you will run.. 10. Keep the "Increment" setting at "1mm" and click the "Rollout" button 11. I got "49.73", yipee!! What the heck does that mean.. Well, its telling me my Durga has the potential to travel 49.73mm every time the motor completes one revolution. That's about 1.9 inches.. This isn't too exciting yet, but it will help us get our MPH in the end.. 12. The last part was the "Motor RPM".. This is important and requires as little guessing as possible to get an accurate number.. I consulted the "Novak Brushless Motor Spec Chart" to figure this out: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm 13. The chart says that I am running 2200Kv (or RPM per volt) for my 17.5 motor. I'm using a 7.4v lipo, so I multiplied 2200 * 7.4 to get "16280" which is my max RPM. 14. I entered 16280 as my RPM and clicked "MPH".. The chart showed I had the potential to go 30.2 MPH.. Not bad for a 17.5 Brushless running with pretty safe gearing for short racing runs.. Hope this helps.
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#33
19-03-2009
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shortly before you replied i managed to find you post on another forum so had a play with figures
im now wanting a 5.5R but not sure how the drivetrain will hold up speed wise on the 23t i would say a little over 30 mph. which is ok i guess thats only a guess, its pretty rapid and it would seem i have the slipper set up perfectly now
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#34
20-03-2009
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Quote:
I'm glad I could help..I imagine the drivetrain can take a 5.5.. I've seen Durga's run with a 6.5 without any problems.. I'm switching over to an 8.5 for the track I run on.. Anything faster is basically overkill since it is a mid size track with lots of turns.. Other 4WD guys dial down their faster motors just to maintain control.. Its amazing how much power and speed the low turn motors can dish out. I just wish we had a huge track to take advantage of their full potential.
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#35
13-04-2009
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I use an EZrun 5.5t in my Durga (6000kv) with the kit 23 pinion that came with the car, and it's plenty fast with good torque.
The biggest difference I noticed was when switching from NiMH to LIPO. Seriously, it was like I'd put a rocket booster on the rear
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#37
07-05-2009
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TRF501X-D...06122005r15420
You can find them for about 12usd if you shop around. I doubt it's something you'll find in the UK but I could be proven wrong, I've no idea if Tamiya UK even bring parts in for this car.
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest.
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#38
07-05-2009
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Quote:
I would like to know one thing only. How come the diff halves can prevent the diff pulley from melting. For my own logic (which might not count for much here) the solution would be to replace the diff pulley to a better material as I cant see how new diff halves would save the original pulley if it's crap. Is it just me?
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#39
07-05-2009
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To continue my rant here.
From the looks of it, the diff halves for the 501x, are made of a different material? On the DB01 diff halves there are the metal plates I glued on them. Are they eliminated from the 501x diff halves? As I said, I dont understand how changning the diff halves could solve a problem caused by heat, produced by a "wear and tear" where the steel balls frictions against the steel plate... That is asuming the steel plates should be used on the 501x...?!?!?! Someone wise could answer this.
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#40
07-05-2009
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Spihc, I wonder the same. I don't have answers as I am a beginner and just destroyed my pulleys (in another thread). I saw a 501x manual from online and the difference I saw was on my Durga, plate is glued onto a plastic piece which is held in place to the diff joints. The 501x shows a "one piece" diff joint and which the diff plate is assembled next to, no glue. Maybe the fact that the diff plate is in place allowing to spin/turn freely? I don't know.
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