Hello

[ex-sco77morgan]

So from the above posts, what's the advise? Cut or not to cut, that is the Question !!

[jondell]

Spring to long and car to high.... Cut

[chrispattinson]

Can someone clarify which caster blocks are 14 degree? I am running alloy 12deg blocks at the moment:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVRC2&P=OW


However, I'd like to try 14 deg blocks.

[Lee Martin]

they will have 14 engraved on them like the 12's have.

[chrispattinson]

Originally Posted by pidge

they will have 14 engraved on them like the 12's have.

Doh! Thanks. . . . . Ill get my coat.

[94eg!]

Originally Posted by pidge

griffs aint that pretty!!!! hahahaha!!!

correct EG94, although having a lower car is better than having a high one with permenately compressed springs, in relation making them stiffer

:-p

Compressing (increasing pre-load) a spring does not make it stiffer, it only increases your ride height. Instead of cutting the springs, it would be much better to simply remove the adjustable spring perch, or cut the lower ball-cups. Either of these will move the upper & lower spring perches further away from eachother to lower the car. Without any preload at full droop, your springs would constantly fall off the upper perch and get stuck.

The truth is we NEED different springs. Tamiya should come out with a DB01 spring set for the rear that are the same/similar rates, but slightly shorter overall. That would solve all our problems...

BTW: What's the part number for the 14* caster blocks?

[Lee Martin]

you can start cutting and changing, personally im gonig to cut the spring!
As i did at petit and that did not make the car worse...it made it better.......

So with my experience, although yes it will increase the rate of the spring. the effect is worth it.

[DCM]

or just use AE springs, like I do....

[Lee Martin]

that does not really work either, when i used to cut down the springs on the rear of my B44 to get it to the correct height............................................ ...........................

i dont like the idea of taking out the threaded collar, as you cannot make fine adjustments easily!

[MHeadling]

Pidge do you run a lipo retainer on your 511? Or did you servo tape the lipo to the battery strap?

Look forward to a rude bits tray, the one on my B44 is ace!

[Lee Martin]

i use a retainer right now.
works really well and still retains the flex.

[DaveG28]

Guys, on the above topics:

1. I'm 99% sure kit castor block is 10 degree. Option aluminium is available in 10 or 12 degree. 12's have it written on, 10's don't. Not sure if Pidge has special bits (in the past the team guys have ran 1 degree rear hubs which have never been released!) but no 14 degree blocks are available as far as I can see?

2. Rear springs. The alternative to cutting springs is to use the associated plastic shock collar as it's much thinner. I use this and just set my front ride height around it. As Pidge says the disadvantage is it's not adjustable, I have instances where I get the rear kicking up due to being too low! Plus blue bling is always better!!

[Fredrik Emilsson]

There are no 14 degree castor blocks, not yet anyway. Lee wrote "they will have" meaning they maybe will be released?

The 0.5 degree rear hubs that Hupo used on his 501X was replaced with a new rear suspension mount on the 511.
The 511 rear susp. mount gives more toe-in than the 501X rear susp. mount. 511 has 3.3 degrees I believe.

[pugs]

Originally Posted by 94eg!

511 kit plastic block is the DB01 carbon upgrade part 54034. This is a 10* block. If the 511 has more than 10* of caster stock, it's due to kickup in the front arm mounts, but I see your point...

really? I think it's 12*,for all the people who don't believe me then see the attached photo, it's very noticeable if you have a good look at the bottom lug where the king pin go's in.....and Mr Tamiya Amish you should know this!!!! 501x is on the left and yes the pin through the hub carriers is a neat fit.

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by pugs

really? I think it's 12*,for all the people who don't believe me then see the attached photo, it's very noticeable if you have a good look at the bottom lug where the king pin go's in.....and Mr Tamiya Amish you should know this!!!! 501x is on the left and yes the pin through the hub carriers is a neat fit.

Hmm good spot, I knew the design had changed but thought they had simply changed the top camber link and "sleeved" the driveshaft, not adjusted the castor!!