can you use wd40 as an after run oil?

[apple_fanta]

i have just spent two days thouroughly cleaning my car and was wondering can u use wd40 as an after run oil?
thanks

[jamiekerr14]

I personally would use proper ARO I know and see a few people use marvels magic stuff or whatever you call it lol.. but I would use stuff designed for it tbh.. Sure it would be OK.. but I personally wouldn't. Get some ARO-Had the same bottle for well over a year.. but I race a reasonable amount.. but even if im racing a week after still plop in a few drops.. my view get the proper stuff.. but some will have the own views..

[carlin]

I would never use WD40 in engine.

I would get the proper stuff from your local hobby shop.

Like the JP afterun oil - Tornado - Xray many other brands are all good.
This is more of castor oil, WD40 isnt

[apple_fanta]

but you can use it like just until you get the chance to purchase ARO right?

[carlin]

Originally Posted by apple_fanta

but you can use it like just until you get the chance to purchase ARO right?

I wouldnt at all full stop unless you want problems in the future.

Less engine life,bearings wearing out etc this all happens later on if you start now.

Best using the correct stuff TBH

[Mash Potato]

Originally Posted by apple_fanta

i have just spent two days thouroughly cleaning my car and was wondering can u use wd40 as an after run oil?
thanks

In short no. Better off not using anything. Don't be so tight, after run oil is not expensive. Basically any rubber parts in the engine can and probably will adsorb WD40 and swell. Result, a lot of damage, seen it many times before.

[jamiekerr14]

Grab some from local hobby shop or order some in.. unless you leaving your nitro for over few weeks most people dont bother.. so get some sooner rather than later. Put few drops in Carb and top plonk on box few spins or pull start. And make sure you leave piston at BDC-Bottom Dead centre. And will be ready to go next use..

[apple_fanta]

sweet. well i dont get paud till midnight so as soon as i get paid i will get right on it...and am sorry guys but i already did it before i posted it was only one drop tho in each i think it should be fine.. im glad i posted and will listen to all of you in the future. so why does traaxx say you can use it if it does so much dmg to brgs etc? :s

[dodgydiy]

i have always just used pure castor oil, no idea whether it is as good as proper stuff, but isnt the idea to just protect the engine from the scouring caused by the corrosive nitromethane in the fuel? wd40 not a good idea especially because of the sticky residue it forms, plus its a releasing fluid not a proper lubricant oil

[steelie600]

also as some have mentioned the rubber in enginges. Some of the high end engines have a silicone insert in the crank and the wd40 will ruin it. Personally i just crank the motor without the ignitor to flood it a bit so the lube in my fuel coats every thing, but then again my engine is used most weekends

[racingdwarf]

wouldn't use wd40 eather,I use ARO but as has already been said on this thred,Unless I was going to not use the engine for more than a fortnight. I wouldn't bother.as it takes a bit of time for the nitro to go to work on things. and when I do use the ARO I use a very small amount....put loads in and it's just hard work next time you want to start the engine.

[Neil Skull]

Noooooooooo dont use WD40!!!!!!!!!!

[jondell]

Originally Posted by steelie600

also as some have mentioned the rubber in enginges. Some of the high end engines have a silicone insert in the crank and the wd40 will ruin it. Personally i just crank the motor without the ignitor to flood it a bit so the lube in my fuel coats every thing, but then again my engine is used most weekends

Not a great idea either.... Nitromethane (Nitro) which is in the fuel, is the chemical thats attacks the metal within our engines. The main purpose of after run oil to coat the metal parts, so that the nitromethane does not... flooding the engine with fuel adds more nitromethane to the engine.

Personally i prefer to remove the plug (having cleaned the plug area before removal) and drop 5-7 droplets of after run oil down the plug hole, then turn the engine over by hand (by rotating the flywheel) 4-5 times, with the car lifted from the rear at 45 degrees, to allow the oil to run into the bearings. For a buggy engine, removing the carb air filter to add oil can (and most probably will) introduce dirt down the carb, resulting in more damage done than the good of oiling.

After running an engine, and having been left for a few hours or so, the menthol and nitro will run to the bottom of the engine, leaving the carb fuel free and not really in need of oil.

Others will have their own ideas on this, but the most important thing is to use the correct oil and not to get dirt into the engine.

If racing week in week out... no harm in just not doing it and no risk in doing it wrong.

[dave g]

as jon says,also depends where you keep your cars and for how long between being used.

i guess im lucky and have a nice warm modelroom where the cars get stored,i never use any afterun oil nor drain the tank or engine of fuel,it comes off the track and into the modelroom,ive never had a rusty crank or bearings etc..now if the car was going into a garage or shed then the same engine would get ruined pretty easily using the same routine.

the nitromethane will absorb any moisture from cold air,then when the methane eventually evaporates it leaves behind the moisture..next step rust,hence why the afterun oil helps,altho fuels laden with caster oil do help somewhat as it doesnt get burnt off like the synthetic oils and helps to keep the engine lubed up somewhat.

so if your storing somewhere cold and damp,run engine out of fuel,lube it up and empty the fuel tank.

[chickentikka25]

Just to add another angle to this, if the nitro in the fuel is corrosive to the engine parts, surely re-starting your engine until it's completely out is the best course of action?

The cylinder would still be lubed as there would still be residue from the oils in there, but not enough nitro to cause issues - waddya think?

Oh, and WD40 is the single best way to kill a bearing, unless you're doing it to clear out dirt and then re-lubing....although it does get rid of the moisture as that's what it was designed to do!