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#1
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Ansmann threaded shock rant..
Not impressed,
My new x2c shocks, built with care, 30w each end. Gave my Rat a run at Stotfold after the racing had ended. Brought it in after 5-6mins & realised it had lost all rebound, almost like i'd removed the springs ! Got home & stripped shocks, found 1 rear shock leaking (from shaft seals ?). Emptied oil & found both front shock shafts 'grabbing' on the seals but can't really see what the problem is ?? Rears lost rebound too but they're not grabbing I coated all seals with oil during assembly. On top of this, my x2c which i ran the whole day have leaking big bores, these shocks are £53 a pair, they shouldn't sodding leak I guessing i'm 'just unlucky'
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TLR 22 3.0/3300kv brushless Lunchbox/Helion 2wd sct/Dromida MT4.18/Orlandoo F-150/Mardave Cobra/Re-re Cat xls w/uprated tranny/Re-re Top Force/Carisma GT24R http://www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com/ |
#2
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i have no experience whit it but try some green slime from asso or bigger o rings
maybe that help are the big bore good i go buy them after my first race |
#3
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I know a few people who have 'shock envy' of my non-BB Ansmann shocks. Over the last year I've had no issues with leakage at all, and I find of all 10th shocks they are the easiest to build and maintain. Coming from a lost of 8th offroad I like the bladder design, I have to admit I'm not sure about the aeration style that most 10th cars seem to use.
If your's are 'grabbing' it may be worth checking for bent shafts? |
#4
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ansmann big bores are 64
team c 50 why the diffrent from 14 € |
#5
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the big bores are known to leak around the bottom seal. In the sticky build threads there are tips on how to get around it. Either double up the outer o-rings, of a couple of wraps of PTFE tape around the cartridge before assembling. Smooth as silk after that.
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#6
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Green Slime is an excellent o-ring lube, I always use it when building shocks.
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#7
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Quote:
team c make em and sell em Team c make em, sell em to ansmann who then sell em......
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#8
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Quote:
The "grabbing" usually means your seals have swolen. When you cleaned the shocks did any motor spray or something similar hit the O rings? This can cause that to happen.
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I shop at www.tcmodels.net |
#9
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Quote:
It à difrent from 28€ thats alot i thinking Friendly regards |
#10
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Quote:
I haven't yet had time to strip the shocks to inspect the seals etc, hope to do this 2moro.
__________________
TLR 22 3.0/3300kv brushless Lunchbox/Helion 2wd sct/Dromida MT4.18/Orlandoo F-150/Mardave Cobra/Re-re Cat xls w/uprated tranny/Re-re Top Force/Carisma GT24R http://www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com/ |
#11
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Quote:
When I build my shocks I put a couple of drops of the shock oil I intend to use around the orings and plastics to seal them or assist preventing air being sucked in via the bottom. Then before I push my shock shaft through I do the same a few drops on the top of the thread to help it gently slide through. Orings are very important in ensuring correct shock action then bleeding so there is no air is next. These are great shocks build them right and they'll be kind
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I shop at www.tcmodels.net |
#12
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Quote:
__________________
TLR 22 3.0/3300kv brushless Lunchbox/Helion 2wd sct/Dromida MT4.18/Orlandoo F-150/Mardave Cobra/Re-re Cat xls w/uprated tranny/Re-re Top Force/Carisma GT24R http://www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com/ |
#13
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I'll post a full setup at some point, but racing on fairly bumpy, damp astro with no huge jumps my standard bore shock settings are:
Front
Rear
For smoother tracks or when the grip comes up I tend to go up 2.5wgt, and an extra 2.5wgt for the summer when it gets hot. Won't claim this is the best setup, but it works well for me and hopefully gives you somewhere to start from. |
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