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#1
15-09-2012
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22 SCT Setup
Does anyone have a 22SCT setup for mid motor on carpet. Tried stock setup with mini pins all around and it was terrible. Way too much high speed steering would cause it to barrel roll in sweepers and at the end of straight. Also was missing some low speed steering in middle of turn.
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#2
16-09-2012
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Hi Bob,
Can't give you a definitive setup yet but I'd definitely suggest mini pins are way too much for the front end. I'd start out with Mini Spikes all round and trim the outer rows (2 max) from the front tyres. I know a few SCT guys prefer the harder blue compound Schumacher tyre on the front to help take some of the bite away but I've always run the same compound on both axles. I've always found mini pins to be very edgy on carpet with the old car whereas mini spikes are alot more forgiving - although ultimately a little slower on a single lap of course. We ran the kit setup on astro for the Horizon UK promo vid with Schuey Yellow mini spikes and it didn't feel too bad to be honest - but it was easy to get it up onto 2 wheels. The stock SCT runs a lot of caster on the front which may be worth dialling out and going with the buggy 25 deg kick wedge and 5 deg blocks. If the Buggy is anything to go by, I tend to run more caster when the grip disappears so on a high bite surface like carpet, I'd be looking at reducing it from 30/10 to maybe 30/0 or 25/5 or even 25/0. I believe this is what many of the US guys are doing - albeit with the rear motor version. To compensate for the sharper initial response you'll get from this, it might be worth laying the front shocks over a bit - or making up a roll bar? As we go indoors and into the winter season over here, hopefully we'll get more chances to run on carpet and I'm sure everyone will be chipping in with ideas and set ups. I'm planning on going to the HRC rear block with probably 3.5 deg Toe with 2 deg anti squat and trying less Caster up front. I'll probably use my roll centres from the Buggy (2mm inner and outer at the rear in 1/E) as a starting point but change the shocks to compensate for the body weight and roll. Don't forget that the SCT front camber block is already 2mm higher (thicker) than the buggy) variant. Sorry that I don't have a definitive just yet but didn't want you to think you were being ignored. There's a few guys running them more actively than I can over here and I'm sure they'll chime in with their findings soon enough. Cheers Andy.
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#3
19-09-2012
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Thanks Andy. Appreciate the suggestions. I will test it out this week and post my results.
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#4
19-09-2012
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I'm going to start out with 30 deg. kick and 0 deg. caster blocks with the steering spindles mounted high (1.5mm spacers on top, 0.5mm on bottom)
For front shocks I have tried inside hole on tower and that helped but I need to change the piston/oil combo. I'm going to go 55 piston with 35 or 40 wt oil and black springs. In the rear I'm going a bit stiffer 55/32.5 with pink springs to get rid of some roll. For camber links I tried longer in the rear and didn't like it at all (2-C) so I will try 1-E with the 2mm spacer on each end. Sway bar is being crafted for front and rear to try out time permitting. I will borrow some mini spike front tires to compare to the mini pins as this should solve the majority of my problems. Racing tomorrow night so expect an update on Friday.
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#5
19-09-2012
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Hi Bob,
i haven't posted as i'm still working on an outdoor set-up, which will be the starting point for the indoor one in a few weeks! Personally i would only change one thing at a time and note it's reaction for future reference. i went from stock 10deg blocks to 5deg and it instantly calmed initial turn in and gave more mid corner steering, so i will be dropping down in stages as required... 3deg, then 0 deg, then repeating with 25deg kickup shim/pivot from 22. Straight away i would dremel 2 rows of pins off inner and outer of front tyres going on carpet experience with XXX-SCT and a few mates trucks last indoor season. On SCT's the tyres are same size all round unlike buggys that have narrower fronts, so trimming spikes/pins off makes the difference in this way and gets rid of excessive grip under roll load. I wouldn't use blue minipins up front on carpet as they are stiffer and more aggressive, but as Gnarly say's, we use blue compound minispikes on front with yellow on rear on astroturf to balance steering with front end grip.. but again we dremel 1-2 rows off inner and outer off any spiked tyres. The 22SCT does seem to sit quite high, i dropped mine down to 22mm in stages at it's first outing and it did make it react quicker (not what you need right now but a lower car obviously rolls less!) Are you running saddles/long stick or shorty lipos? another setting is the 2mm castor shim, moving it to front helps lose steering as it changes ackerman slightly. Black fr and pink rear springs are the way forward i feel too... i'm running 37.5wt in front and 32.5wt in rear with 55 in rear and now 56 in fronts and it feels good but probably still a little soft for indoor high grip.
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#6
21-09-2012
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Thanks for the additional suggestions. Helps confirm I'm on the right path
I had a lot of problems with tie rods popping off. I ended up replacing them with Traxxas tie rods and captured ball ends. Replaced rear links and front steering links. As for setup I stayed with mini pins front and rear but I snipped 2 rows inside and out on front tires. I started with 30 kick up and 0 degree caster blocks. Front shocks 55 piston w/ 40 wt oil, 1mm limiter, black springs Rear shocks 55 piston w/ 32.5 wt oil, 3mm limiter, pink springs Front shocks inside on tower. Other mounting points are stock Rear link is 1-B 2mm both sides Front link 1-A 2mm inside -1 camber front, -1.5 rear 1mm toe out 29mm ride height The truck was starting to tip again in the main but still fairly quick. Jumped awesome and was very smooth overall I'm running short lipo which I believe is part of my problem. I will be adding more weight to the chassis or may try the mid motor brass weight kit Managed to TQ and win tonight Thanks again for the setup help!!
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#7
22-09-2012
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Quote:
there are some tips worth trying here to prevent the steering tie rods popping off: http://losiracing.blogspot.co.uk/201...ification.html http://losiracing.blogspot.co.uk/201...-ball-cup.html It appears the steering rack can catch the ballcups on full suspension articulation and steering lock in race conditions so these are the recommended TLR team fixes whilst they get the updated rack manufactured. May be worth checking if it is still an issue with you changing to traxxas cups. I've had no problems with mine so far but glad i got this info in case it becomes an issue. 
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#8
22-09-2012
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Quote:
I'm sure TLR will have a fix.
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