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#1
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x6 gearbox
hey , iv been having problems with my x6 transmission, it doesnt spin very freely at all, the gears all seem to be fine, im thinking it might be something to do with the caseing.
any ideas ppl thanx chris |
#2
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not over tightening the case screws are you?
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#3
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nope, tryed that, the diff seems to wobble about a little, and the whole thing doesnt feel very nice when rotating.
are there ment to be shims on the inside of the transmission case anywhere?doesnt look like it acording to the manual |
#4
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have you tried cleaning out the bearings? possibility of dirt getting inside the case and causing the bearing to go bad.
Soak them in motor spray, give them a good shake up and relube with royal oil and see how it goes. |
#5
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ok cheers mate. ill have a go
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#6
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if you are having tight spots in the gearbox, that can be a mis-alignment of the front screw hole (check it alighns), also check to see if the slipper plate isn't rubbing the motor plate, thats the faults I have seen on the gearbox I built.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#7
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Hey Chris,
Try this... Take gearbox out, and take apart completely. 1) Fit diff with bearings ONLY, put case together and screw it together with the two screws (no need for motor plate) - does it spin? if yes go to 2. If no, the issue is the gearbox is putting side load on the bearings which binds them, you'll need to grind out the inside of the gearbox to widen it and release the pressure..... this was something we had with the very very first prototype cases and was resolved 100%. 2) If above spins, install the idler next with diff still in, and put case together. Does it spin? if yes go to 3. if no, a) there is something wrong with those gears, try cleaning them, turning them around or new gears. b) if still no, the gear mesh is out, this I would actually consider extremely rare, if possible atall. 3) If above spins, remove all gears and install the layshaft only (with alloy sleeve) and assemble the gearbox. Does it spin? if yes go to 4. If no, check it for movement side to side as it should have a slight amount of play, its likely to have side load on the bearings. I actually grind a little (very little) off that alloy sleeve even if it doesn't need it as putting the slipper on stops it floating.... grinding too much and the gear will clash with the case, so do it a little at a time. 4) if above was fine, fit the idler with the layshaft and put the case together. Does it spin? Im hoping you have found the cause already by this point, as it really should spin, but if no... Clean the gears, turn them around then try new again. Im out of ideas at this point. 5) You know where I live mate, send me a text and your welcome to come over 9just bring the gearbox out of the car), I can give it a full on check over if all else fails. Let me know either way tho. Chris |
#8
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I have had my slipper plates catch on the smidge of screw poking through behind, i run Losi plates which do seem to be even closer too, so I put one of those shims on from the MIP driveshafts, they're ideal. Again, its one of those things which can be done even if it doesn't really need it.
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#9
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thats what I did with it, shimmed the plate out away. If I remember, there was a distortion in the older boxes to.
Whats the news on the four gear transmission?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
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I remember the issue Steve mentions, though never had one like this myself. Unless this is an old case it shouldn't be a problem anymore.
I think the 4 gear tranny's have been moulded now, but the motor plates have not been cut yet. Chazz also wants the new rear bulkheads (and rear carbon towers) to be available at the same time. I think the bulkheads have been shot but our carbon supplier is based where the forest fires in California were I can't wait to get the new finalised new tranny in, it's proper good! Chris gives good advice above. One other question, what colour idler gear are you using, an off white or grey?
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Nortech is ACE! |
#11
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dan, does this make a difference?? (sorry if its a stupid question)
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#12
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thanx alot everyone, im gona spend the afternoon trying to suss it out.
ill let you know chris, im pretty sure its one of the old cases, ill give it a good clean etc cheers guys great help! |
#13
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I think the new off white ones have a small issue with being round
G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#14
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Well, even so - it should be fine, as all the early (expected but actually quite minor) issues the team worked around were only on the prototype cases and there were literally a handful of them, once the mould was right then the customer ones were done - and no changes in it have been made since. Im really not expecting you to find a fault in the moulding to be honest
The change in colour of the gear is significant to who produced them for AE, the white ones are the ones done in China. There are various other colour changes on AE cars, such as diff outdrives have changed from grey/greenish to black - the black ones seem to wear a little quicker.... but I do wear these parts faster than most somehow. |
#15
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Chris,
Your allowed to wear things faster than most. Your rich lowe`s hero!!! http://www.jconcepts.net/index.php?/...cus_details/14 |
#16
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Andy, As G says, we think the newer off white ones are not as good. I believe it's not that it's not round at the outer teeth edge, but the valleys of the teeth can be slightly off leading to a notchy box even when there's nothing wrong with it. They run themselves in eventually and I can't feel any difference on track even when they are running themselves in but it doesn't feel good on the bench.
Chris, put the box together with no screws and see how it feels, that should give you a heads up. Either way I know it's easy for me to say this but when the 4 gear tranny comes out, it is better in all respects in my opinion. Quality, performance both in feel and on track and it won't be that expensive (though you will need another idler gear, bar and 2 bearings).
__________________
Nortech is ACE! |
#17
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ok ppl,ive cleaned everything out, rebuilt diff etc, the gears all look fine.
all gears spin fine on their own like chris said. when the case is put together is feels a lil ruff, not bad it seems to spin free enough. the problem seems to be when im putting the spur on, ive put a new spur and new slipper pads on. as im tightening the slipper up( not very tightly) the whole transmission seems to be sticking and no longer turning as freely. any ideas? |
#18
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have you checked that the screws arent going too far through the motor plate and therefore touching the slipper plates?? i had this problem before. dont have a clue what it was but seems to have fixed itself now
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Matt Myers Team Associated b4 Team Associated b44 |
#19
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Thats sounds like you need to put the shims behind the slipper plate on the motor plate side Chris. Had to do the same myself. I think Chris or Dan mentioned it in the posts above. When you take the slipper plates off, you might see a bit of scoring on the motor plate.
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#20
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cheers dan, g, and chris for clearin that up
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