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#1
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Am I Using the right airbrush?
So i am a bad workman, and i want to blame my tools.
Coming back to racing after a bit of an absence and just finished airbrushing a shell (I am no artist, i mostly do it for the DIY satisfaction). It was my first time using both water based paints and liquid mask. The liquid mask went really well and I was really happy with the results (I always used to suffer with bleeding lines). The paint however, was a completely different story. The airbrush was coughing, spluttering, clogging and generally doing everything it could to make painting a real pain. So i am going to throw it open to you guys to tell me where i am going wrong. Airbrush: Aztek A470 Paint: Faskolour PSI: 20-50 I am a bit worried that the brush may be gunked up inside, with the old horrible paint. But i really dont want to buy another airbrush right now. I can get new nozzles for it, but again, don't want to throw good money after bad. The paint itself seems pretty thick compared to the old paint i used to use. Are other airbrushes better suited to this paint? ANybody out there using this airbrush? I appreciate any help!! |
#2
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Did you thin the paint at all?
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You cant buy new thumbs |
#3
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first of make sure inside and out the gun is really clean
then get some auto air 4011 thinner from RCS graphics or get jons own brand both are awesome thin at 3 parts paint to one part thinner to start and spray at 30-35 psi for large areas and 10-20 for small touch up areas cut and clean old 2-3 ltr pop bottles and practice on them inside cut in half first lol
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#4
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Cheers for the replies so far.
I didn't thin the paint, as i had read that the paint does not need it. And a couple of people have said that thinning the paint can cause adhesion problems if you lay it on a bit too thick/ I will experiment a little more. |
#5
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If your worried its not clean inside try some of this. https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=572
Strip the brush right down, and spray tge small parts in the lit off of the can. Then fill the bowel and area where the trigger assebly goes and repeat a couple of times. You can use these https://airbrushes.com/product_info....d58aea4f81a80f to go through the small holes and clean the larger chambers with a cotton bud. Hey presto it should be like new. |
#6
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I used Aztek brushes years ago when I was doing a lot of plastic modelling and they first came out. To be honest wasn't that impressed. They're a very clever idea, but build quality wasn't that good and I was never overly pleased with the way they work. I'd have to be honest and say the current crop of £15 Ebay specials are better...
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#7
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Ive not seen these before but do look a little interesting, you should be able to spray straight out of the bottle with a .4 needle (I've sprayed straight using my .35) though a little reducer never hurts (either the RCS stuff or Auto air reducer) and just a drop or so will set you going in the right direction.
I'd recommend using Auto air airbuh cleaner after each use to keep things clean, theres also Auto air restorer for giving that thorough deep clean (not had to use this stuff yet though) You can also try reducing with a little water (as this is waterbased paint) to test, the results aren't quite as good as using a proper reducer but does work very well with no nasty side effects. Just remember to only add drops of reducer/water in small steps and test between to get the right consistency. Good luck and hope that helps. |
#8
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The actual nozzle assemblies do come apart with gentle persuasion. I used one when I got started in painting - borrowed from a mate. The paint would clog around the spring and needle in the nozzle.
Not a bad brush, the metal bodied variety was more nicely made. Paint defo needs thinning...
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