New Tamiya TRF 2wd

[Origineelreclamebord]

To be honest the more I look at it, the less I'm impressed by it. The alternatives out there offer the choice from cheaper (Trackstar +6mm tub) to higher end/better finish (Vega 201). Plus, it just looks like they had the other brands do the development and copy it afterwards - again

[Knewbie]

Originally Posted by abiye

Got my XR kit and big bores today... we have a great Tamiya distributor here in Canada, we get most of the stuff before everyone else.

Are the big bore dampers in a set like the aeration dampers?

[trowta]

who is the disturbutor and what is their website cause I cannot find it....

[Ross]

Originally Posted by trowta

who is the disturbutor and what is their website cause I cannot find it....

I assume they do the TRF stuff as well ?

http://www.hobbyco.net/scripts/cgiip...Kipfqlkbyajacj

[TRF_AK]

Alright guys, I need a bit of help. I've run onroad for years now, but due to a move, offroad is much easier to come by where I am now. I am looking to pick up a TRF201, but need some advice on what hopups are "must haves", "good to have" and "not necessary". I know it is a different list for everyone, but hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I will be running on indoor and outdoor prepped dirt. Any help is appreciated.

[James]

I contacted Canada and this was the response :

Hello James.
Both these items have not been received into our warehouse and I suspect it is a similar situation over there. It may not be the distributor, it may be the supplier.
Typically we don't retail outside Canada so I'm sorry not much hope here. I would wait a bit as the products you are looking for may not have been released by Tamiya.

[Origineelreclamebord]

@TRF_AK:

Spares:
- Front suspension arms (F-Parts)
- Front suspension block (J-Parts)
- Front shock tower (M-Parts)
- Front nose piece (L-Parts)
- Some screws (Hardened steel stuff, not alu, titanium or any other type of stuff), spacers (for the roll center adjustment) and nuts (wheel nuts and stuff).

Hopups:
- Ceramic Diff balls.
- Ceramic Diff thrust bearing balls.
- Reinforced Differential Gear set (black gears instead of the white ones - on the white ones some drivers had teeth break out under normal use).
- RudeBits Under-servo weight (72g).
- XA Suspension Hanger (+0.5 degree toe-in).
- Front axles for Imperial bearings (always handy, you might end up borrowing a set of front wheels/tires from someone, for example to try a tire you don't have yet).
- Associated 75T Spur gear (if bite is high you can move the motor to the front).
- Trackstar +6mm tub. I expect the XR conversion is quite expensive (at least the MSRP is ridiculous), and you might be able to discuss with Trackstar a custom wheelbase increase. A longer wheelbase is the only hopup I mention here that I haven't tested, but from everyone I hear in general about +...mm conversions, you just can get away with more before your car becomes unstable and bites back... so it should be worth the money.
- Associated F+R spring sets. Cheap and cheerful and a good starting point being that the spring set was developed together with the B4... and let's face it, they are quite similar in the majority of the construction.

Mods/Tips:
- Tape or glue the cap of the spur gear cover, it tends to come off and get lost in crashes/knocks in-battle (I had it >5 times in one season).
- Tape the spur gear cover shut on top of the motor plate to make sure it's properly sealed. There is a hopup motor plate with an embossed edge, but I found it still doesn't keep out the dirt, ending up with a worn spur gear and pinion after only a few meetings.
- Add 2mm spacers between steering arm/knuckle and the ball connector of the tie-rod to reduce bump-steer.
- Immediately get rid of the blue alu ball connectors. Instead, replace them with fluorine coated low profile ones (you do need the low profile ones for proper clearance without mods).
- You could get the XV-01 Reinforced rear uprights/E-parts to make bigger clearance between the rear springs and turnbuckles - it also allows finer tuning options for the rear roll center.
- If you buy the J-parts, you have a spare T-plate. These don't break, so I suggest you try out this T-Plate Mod.
- If you want to use an under-LiPo weight, make sure you use the plastic battery plate. The construction isn't really made to accept LiPos anything higher than 25mm, so it's nice to have a battery plate that can bend/flex over the battery. If you do so it may also be worthwhile using longer grub screws on which the thumb screws fit.
- Use a shorty pack and some foam spacers: it's a nice piece of weight balance adjustment, and the car felt better with one imo.
- Avoid alu mods where you can: The Tamiya plastics are pretty tough in general and I've not broken stuff like plastic rear hubs or suspension hangers... and actually, I found the alu to wear down more quickly in stuff like ball joints than the plastic parts did.

[abiye]

Originally Posted by Knewbie

Are the big bore dampers in a set like the aeration dampers?

Yes but with alloy shock caps...

more info from Tamiya Canada here, that's my buggy in the pic... had it out this weekend and its a very big improvement... i was running 1.6 pistons with AE 35wt front and 30wt in the rear. Front spring was 2.5 rate and rear was 1.8. Very easy to drive and stable on an outdoor clay track.

[Knewbie]

Originally Posted by abiye

Yes but with alloy shock caps...

more info from Tamiya Canada here, that's my buggy in the pic... had it out this weekend and its a very big improvement... i was running 1.6 pistons with AE 35wt front and 30wt in the rear. Front spring was 2.5 rate and rear was 1.8. Very easy to drive and stable on an outdoor clay track.

Neat, do know the product code for this set?

[abiye]

Item #54504 and Item #54505

[Aussie Top Force]

Originally Posted by Chris

This new lower deck for the TRF201 off-road racing buggy is result of years of dedicated testing by the TRF team. The TRF201 conversion set is designed with the goal of winning the 2014 IFMAR off-road championships. The new aluminum lower deck makes the TRF201 chassis into a long wheelbase, narrower chassis setup, which reduces contact with the racing surface. Drivers can expect their TRF201 and DN-01 model to become even more competitive in at their local track.

Wheelbase is extended by 11mm to provide increased stability.
Aluminum lower deck has hard anodized coating to provide excellent durability.
Resin side guards add to the toughness of the chassis.
Compatible with rectangular-shaped and separate-type battery packs. Battery position can be changed depending upon the type employed.
Set contents

Aluminum Lower Deck x1
Aluminum Front Posts x3
Aluminum Rear Posts x2
Aluminum Battery Post x2
Aluminum Suspension Spacer x1
Carbon Battery Plate x1
Resin Side Guards x2
Body x1
Wing x1

source: www.tamiyausa.com

Anyone seen pictures from the included body?

Thanks for the info and pictures from Kentec. Now all the parts have been released, except the mid motor conversion, I'm keen to build a project 201 with the new chassis and big bores. However, the cost is looking a little restrictive, that is to build a new car from scratch! Considering the value in a TLR 22 or Durango, which as a kit, include BB's and the ability to configure a mid or rear motor configuration.

Tamiya (TRF) should just release a new kit with the new chassis and big bores! Anyone now looking at a TRF 201 will believe that to make it completive with usual suspects, you need in US $$'s $320 for a kit (upgraded version), $175 for the new Chassis, $90 for the BB shocks and $30 for matching springs, $30 for aluminium rear hub carriers and $20 to $30 for aluminium suspension carriers. Thats a total of $675, with no paint on the body and no tyres!

Granted, its good to be able to up grade your current kit, but the 201 has been around for while now and some well raced cars will be quite worn and in need of new parts any way. Like all the small things you get a new kit, bearings, gears, ball joints, tie rods etc.

And then there is the mid motor conversion! +$$$

MMMMM........

New kit please!

[xfactor]

Hi all, just to say my tamiya 201 xr kit and tamiya big bores came today.I must say that the 201 kit cost 106 uk pounds and has to be the best 106 pounds i have spent on RC stuff.The kit and what you get is fantastic and the quality is awesome.

In the kit you get Spare !! screws,(battery posts alloy and plastic as a option),complete blue washer kit 1mm,2mm,3mm washers,blue alloy nuts these are spare after you have built it.

When its finished wired and paint i will post pics,if your thinking of getting one, get one.

Well chuffffffed

[jhammond]

DELETED

[Jamesk]

Try Stella models in HK or RC Mart as they are showing stock.


jK

[Aussie Top Force]

Originally Posted by xfactor

Hi all, just to say my tamiya 201 xr kit and tamiya big bores came today.I must say that the 201 kit cost 106 uk pounds and has to be the best 106 pounds i have spent on RC stuff.The kit and what you get is fantastic and the quality is awesome.

In the kit you get Spare !! screws,(battery posts alloy and plastic as a option),complete blue washer kit 1mm,2mm,3mm washers,blue alloy nuts these are spare after you have built it.

When its finished wired and paint i will post pics,if your thinking of getting one, get one.

Well chuffffffed

Cool. Pictures would be appreciated muchly! I'd just like to build up a new one from scratch and keep my original 201 for the kids. A new kit would a lot less costly!

[taomo]

is there a full kit of the trf201xR? or we must buy the old trf201x kit and update with the new chassis and big bores?

[xfactor]

Hi Taomo,

No there is not a complete as yet, you need the 201 xr kit to update you 201 and then buy the big bores.

Hope that helps.

[taomo]

Thanks xfactor
My 201xR is still coming (retained at customs). I brought the "old" 201X piece by piece (but only the spares and hop ups I want) and the new chassis kit and big bores. It is a little cheap that buy the original kit and upgrade with new chassis and big bores.
I will take some pics soon...

[muratti]

I have already built my 201XR with the use of my old 201.
The sideguards seem to be not perfectly ending with the chassis, Kyosho die that way better with the RB6. I will post pictures later.
The BB Shocks are nice, the only downside is that you have to remove the 2 3x0,1mm shims you should use as per manual. If you use them the shocks seem to be not freely running as the pressure on the O-rings is too high. I removed These 2 shims and it seems much better.
It could Happen that they are leaking, i will report this after i haven tanken the car on the track. Again Kyosho shocks are perfect when built stock.

[trowta]

here is my TRF 201XR the body is off at the painters