Yokomo Bmax2 M

[skyaflake]

Originally Posted by neallewis

I'll pick one of these up this week as MB have them due in.





I just did mine. Replaced topshaft and bearings as well as going back to new plastic idlers. I found that the topshaft was wearing away the first idler, which was leaving aluminium filings inside the gearbox. The first ali idler was worn with angled teeth, as if contact with the topshaft was not square. Hopefully the new bearings and hard case will sort this out? The second ali idler, the one that drives the diff was not worn at all. I caught it all before a failure anyway.
I wonder if its best to run steel topshaft, plastic idler, ali idler then to diff?

I used to ran all plastic. Switched to full Alu and going to try it out in the outdoor season. While running plastic idler gears I broke 3. The top one every time. So I guess you should be allright with a plastic idler, but it must not be sloppy else it will break.

Originally Posted by neallewis

Have you got a photo of this please?

I will post one asap. It's no that special. Just playing around.

Originally Posted by neallewis

You should easily get that run time. I've had 20mins out of mine with shorty and 7.5 outside.

I've ran a 7.5 inside and used about 1400mAh when running 5.5 mins, so for 9 minutes with a 6.5 I guess I will drain ~2100mAh, which is fine. I run 4200mAh batteries. I just hope the batteries will give me punch throughout the whole run.

[mes]

I did not have any problems with the plastic idlers, but switched to aluminum nonetheless. After running the car for a day, I found that I did not like the sound of the transmission at all, but wanted to try something (probably) more durable than the std plastic idlers. Now I am running the TeamC polyamid idlers, which are a perfect fit and decrease the stress on my ears.

[skyaflake]

What's the part number of the Team-C idlers? Always good to try out.

[skyaflake]

For those wanting a worlds chassis, but don't need all the bling. The V3 has been announced. Comes with better lower shock cartridges, this should solve the problem the shocks have with sucking in air.

http://teamyokomo.com/news/order_she..._b_max2mr3.pdf

@mes, thanks. Will try those.

[mes]

Originally Posted by skyaflake

What's the part number of the Team-C idlers? Always good to try out.

TeamC Part No TU0259

[mes]

Originally Posted by skyaflake

For those wanting a worlds chassis, but don't need all the bling. The V3 has been announced. Comes with better lower shock cartridges, this should solve the problem the shocks have with sucking in air.

http://teamyokomo.com/news/order_she..._b_max2mr3.pdf

Nice way for me to upgrade and give my son a lower spec MR2 at the same time! Unless there will be a version with the front hex wheel conversion, that is...
I guess we will know more after Tokyo Hobby Show in late April.

[neallewis]

Google translate:

Notice of Corporation Yokomo new product launches

High grip course orientation of the artificial turf carpet road surface, etc.

B-MAX2 MR popular model change! Standard with the new aluminium main chassis, which is integrated to the front of the skid plate, the height of the rigidity
I show the driving characteristics of good response to the weapon. In response to artificial turf carpet road surface and it is growing these days in particular, running a high-grip road surface method which will be a major future
But I will win the advantage. In addition, the blurring of the shock shaft by shock bottom cap is also changed, mounting the new plastic shaft guide
To prevent, reduce contamination of air into the cylinder, it grew maintenance cycle sense of stability and shock absorption.

V3 features:

And new design aluminium one-piece main chassis
(Can be selected mid-motor, rear of motor)
And new design Aluminium Rear Suspension Mount
(3,3.5,4 ° toe-selectable)
Cab Forward type NEW body
Steel turn buckle
Double pad slipper clutch
- Aluminium front brace
· "C-clip" universal shaft
Full ball bearings
Paradise-off-road wing
Pinion gear with wheel (without tires)

[neallewis]

web page for the v3:
http://teamyokomo.com/product/offroa...b_max2mr3.html

Google chrome should translate if for you. it does for me.

edit: it doesn't look to have hex wheels.

[AfroP]

wish they would stop doing a new version of the car every 3 months.
it really kills the resale value of the original kit regardless of if you have added parts to it or not.

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by AfroP

wish they would stop doing a new version of the car every 3 months.
it really kills the resale value of the original kit regardless of if you have added parts to it or not.

it looks like the only new part is the shock bottoms. it's most likely a cheaper way to get a full alu chassis though.
It doesn't look to have any bling parts, so a replacement for the lower spec kits.

[mes]

I've got no problem with constant evolution, I'd hate it if they released a really new car as often, though. Yokomo's policy enables new customers to get an up-to-date car without buying every new part individually, and owners of previous versions can update their cars to the extent they like, in the case of radical changes even in the form of reasonably priced conversion kits. From my point of view there is no way for a company that is really serious about racing (and depends on selling quality stuff) to do it better. I doubt any manufacturer is interested in the used car market at all.

I got my B-Max2 when it was released two years ago, and thanks to the MR conversion kit I was able to keep it up to date by buying one part at a time - although I upgraded to Factory standard a little bit quicker.

[MHeadling]

Has anyone else tried the BM-008R rear arms on the Bmax 2??

Seems like they need a bit of a dremel judging by the pics of Naoto's car

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/...cin2014030709/

I'v ordered up a pair to try out on my car

[boy_lard100]

I have to agree new cars/evolutions are released and does drop the second hand market,
The good points are that it does open up the more budget end to try and encourage younger people into the sport,
I have just picked up a second bmax2 just because it was the right price,
Yes I know with the ver3 being released its not going to be worth much but then it's almost worth keeping as second cars or letting the kids use them.

[mes]

I installed the BM rear arms, but will only be able to test them on a track in April. Only differences to the EOS Slovakia set-up on my car are the lack of hard plastic parts and the world spec chassis, and from testing in my living room I'd say that steering seems to have improved compared to the last EOS set-up sheet.

[skyaflake]

I have them ready (took them from my old B-Max4 II) for testing. Probably soon, as I don't have any time for racing this month.

[neallewis]

i ran the BM-008R arms tonight for last round and final. went the quickest I'd gone all night, car was awesome at high speed turns and rear was really locked in. Q 2nd in B final, won that and bumped up to A final. really happy with the car. low traction rubber village hall floor. i gopro'd the finals, which I'll upload. after the new arms went on, the car felt super good and stable in the rear.
not sure why lee and naoto used them for high grip as it certainly helped lock in more grip on the low traction for me.

[mes]

Hmm, maybe the best of two worlds: wider stance good for high grip tracks, more droop good for less traction.

[evertonal]

When fitting the BM-008 rear arms to the B-Max 2, do you have to make any modifications to the arms, hubs etc?

[mes]

You have got to remove a little material in the rear, cf. pics of Naoto's car at the last EOS race.

[MHeadling]

Here is my quick guide on how to fit BM-008R arms to your B-Max 2



As you can see these are the parts your need for the conversion

BM-008R arms
2.6mm bolts for outer hinge pin
1mm shim for rear hub spacing
A Dremel!

Dremel the rear of the arms as per pic to 33.92mm (measure you original arms to be sure)

Dremel the arms down to the same size as the original arms

Fit as per normal, make sure they clear the rear hinge pin brace and the arms fall under their own weight



Fit hubs as per normal but use one std 1.3mm shim and you'll need a 1mm shim as the BM008 arms are a bit narrower than the kit arms



Bolts to hold in the outer hinge pin, the kit ones are too small, you'll need 2.6mm bolts for the BM008 arms, I used tamiya ones but yokomo bmax 4 II bolts will be perfect

Finished:




Note: re check your camber and wind down the spring collars to raise the ride height back to normal 18-20mm