B5m help

[Stickygeko]

Please can anyone offer any advice...

Was at bury yesterday, track was dry in parts wet in others. I was on ballistics.

Im having problems with handling... im experiencing lots of understeer on power, when i back off/brake into corners i can corner quick sharp but soon as I put power down the back end wants to swap places with the front.

im running grey rear spring yellow front springs (tried orange and white in the front - white was even worse)
middle hole on the front and rear towers, lower outer hole
long links
45g brass front bulkhead 30degree 5 degrees outers

really struggled to point and drive in a straight line

thanks
Paul

[Pitman Ed]

In the wet, remove the front weight. Use inside hole on rear arms. Shorten the rear camber link. Maybe lower the inner rear camber link ball stud. Under lipo weight may also help, say 60 gram. Set ESC to a mild profile.

Having said that, a track that is dry and wet is going to be difficult.

[Stickygeko]

what weight oil/springs would you use please

[Chris Elworthy]

Firstly what tyres were you running on the front?

[Gupz]

Originally Posted by Stickygeko

Please can anyone offer any advice...

Was at bury yesterday, track was dry in parts wet in others. I was on ballistics.

Im having problems with handling... im experiencing lots of understeer on power, when i back off/brake into corners i can corner quick sharp but soon as I put power down the back end wants to swap places with the front.

im running grey rear spring yellow front springs (tried orange and white in the front - white was even worse)
middle hole on the front and rear towers, lower outer hole
long links
45g brass front bulkhead 30degree 5 degrees outers

really struggled to point and drive in a straight line

thanks
Paul

Sounds like you are running a soft front spring and hard rear spring, try it the other way around. Green rear, red/orange/purple on the front. Shock oils will have a bigger effect, so use a heavy oil in the front to get rid of some of the snappiness in your steering. Softer rear oil and stand the shock up to get a better response from the car digging in.

Get rid of the 5 degree inserts in your casters. 30 degree bulkhead should be more than enough.

The brass bulkhead will cause you masses of initial steering. Only use it when the grip is really high and you are trying to get rid of grip roll. This will cause you a problem with spring rates. More weight = Harder spring to achieve the same rebound and compression.

Running a bit of weight in the centre will help even the car out.

Links/wheelbase - leave it alone and only adjust if you are at a different track that requires you to do so. Otherwise, wet or dry, leave it as it is. Set these for the track, not the conditions.

Without knowing your set up and what you are running in the car, it's virtually impossible to give an answer. Sadly, it's down to trial and error.

Hope that helps a bit though

[Stickygeko]

Originally Posted by Chris Elworthy

Firstly what tyres were you running on the front?

hi chris, i used yellow cut staggers... tried silvers but back end stepped loads more with silvers

[Stickygeko]

Thanks gupz ill try get a setup sheet filled out

[Gupz]

Originally Posted by Stickygeko

Thanks gupz ill try get a setup sheet filled out

No problem mate.

Hope it helps! I've been fighting with my one for the last 18 months lol The trick is to find a base set up and always start with that. So when you turn up to the track, your car is always the same car.
Then it's only minor changes that need to be made.

[Chris Elworthy]

Without trying to sound patronising no amount of setup will outperform a very smooth throttle thumb in low grip. You do not want to be applying a lot of throttle until the car is perfectly straight and you can drive towards the next apex without the need to steer again. Wet driving imo is a little more point to point than in high grip. In order to limit the initial punch of the car, reduce the chance of wheel spinning and exiting smoother a simple yet very effective way is to reduce the throttle curve on your radio to around -40%. This will limit the initial punch out of the corner and at the same time keep the front tyres from lifting on throttle reducing on power push. I actually use minus throttle curve even in high grip to make the power delivery smoother.

Running the 25deg kick up on the front will give a little more front weight bias but will reduce rear grip a little on power. I would go back to the standard link length in low grip with 2mm under the rear inner ballstud for more forward drive. Shortening the wheelbase will put more weight over the rear axle for more traction also and standing the rear shock up on the innermost hole on the rear wishbone is a must.

Your springs do sound a bit hard, I'd go for red up front and green rear with 32.5/27.5 oils and standard pistons.

Chris

[Stickygeko]

I've got a dx4c so don't have the curve on the controller but i do have a decent esc with absima cts10 which has loads of settings I dogs Turn punch etc right down, ill try get my current set up on a sheet 1st of all... feels great indoors on carpet, the work back from there, softer springs and oils