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#1
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Custom clodbuster chassis
I have been building a custom chassis for a clodbuster for a while now, thought I would share on here if anyone is interested? im about half way through.
First thing is top link mounts for the Clod gearboxes. Not much available to buy, I did see a design I like thats not made anymore, so im making that. Cardboard mock up seems ok, uses the existing holes in the gearbox, making it out of 6mm plate, then spacing it 2mm from the gearbox so its centered. Cut 2 out roughly, at the same time, then got the holes in the right place so i could bolt them together and machine them at the same time. The screws normally go into the gearbox and into nuts where the plate is now. So the plan is to put the screws into the other side and have the nuts where the screw heads are now. These little dudes go in where the recesses are for the nuts and then space the plate out 2mm at the bottom and 2.9mm at the top (yes I found out the gearbox isnt totally even there). All square now, you can just see the top spacer has to be 0.9mm fatter. Polished up the top lunk mounts The design I have in my head is a bit complex so its time for the cardboard, something double deck: Then I had a cup of tea, then got out the sticky tape....... yes .... so...... cantilevers, shocks mounted side by side on the top deck, sway bar below that, with the battery mounted long ways, and fitted through the bottom of the lower deck. so top middle and bottom deck, like strike it lucky I know it looks a mess but im sure things will work themselves out |
#2
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Started on the lower deck
screwed them together and milled the flats at the same time The idea is the battery will load from the bottom my little mill all spot on Clamped it to a piece that will become the top deck, holding it like this I can mark with a drill through the existing holes to line it up. Then I couldnt be sure about the top deck shape, so I had a cup of tea, and gave up Ok after some thinking I have the top deck sort of where it needs to be, the cantelevers are going to be at an angle. Need another one of these for the other end. Cut the inside of the link out and flattened the top to give the rod end more room to move now just got to make 3 more just like it setting up on my little lathe all the bodies turned up nice put the flat on the top and made the hole for the rod ends. |
#3
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Back to the chassis, made another side and then the middle deck..... which may or may not be the right size.
Cut slots out of the sides and then new sections to attach to the battery tray. so you can put the battery in the tray then load it from the bottom. Some standoffs for the top deck, again, maybe Ok, cantilever time! this should be fun, using 8mm thick, cut the rough shapes out with a hacksaw first. Drilled one of them with the 3 holes where I wanted, then through them all in one corner in the same place and then bolted them together and drilled the holes through them all. With them all together like this its a lot easier to get them exactly the same and also much quicker. Machining the flats on them and buzzing off the corners just to make the process of filing the radiuses a bit easier. Trimmed all the corners ready for filing Split them into 2 lots of 2. They are 8mm thick, so machining the middle hole is ok for 16mm thick but trying to do all 4 at once would be a bit difficult. This poses its own problms, I have to cut up and down and then left and right making a note of where I start and how far I cut in each direction. Then I have to unclamp it and re-clamp on an angle to do the other 2 edges, again noting where I start and stop so when I do the other 2 I can do it exactly the same. work in progress, clamped in position to do the up/down, left/right. Drilled the hole for the bearings very carefully, then set it up in the mill and milled a 9.5mm hole. Next using my new tool, a reamer, no idea how I have got this far without owning any reamers before I reamed the hole to a perfect 10mm so the bearing just presses in. now its time to seperate them and give them a quick scrub wth some 1000 grit to see what we have. really pleased with these, they look and feel proper. Next up I wanted some sway bars running on bearings, this will be attached to the middle deck of the chassis. I set the strip up in the mill then just worked my way down boring the holes and then did the last 0.2mm with the reamer to get a perfect 6mm for the flanged bearing to press into. Cut them up and flattened the faces, then drilled 2 holes in the bottom of them all. Curved the tops, mmmmm smoooth Wasnt until I came to fit them I realised my middle deck was totally the wrong shape, So I had to make a new middle deck with some nice little wings for the mounts to sit on |
#4
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Nice work. I made my own chassis but much lighter and more like a TXT1 design so it looks scale, but have broken a few links so will beef it up at some point
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#5
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Yeh, I did a similar thing using AR60 axles, the thread is on here, but I got fibrelyte to cut the chassis plates for me.
These are going on the ends of the antiroll bar and hold the rods that go out to the lower wishbones: drilled them all with holes at the same angle (harder than it looks) and they fit like so Did a bit of work on the top deck, I originally filed the curves by hand wich is rubbish so I set up a little jigg on the mill so I could cut the same angle on all 4 corners. thats it for a couple of days |
#6
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Awesome work. Will be great to see it finished......
__________________
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83767 TRADER FEEDBACK **** 5 Metres Speed Swimming Champion 1976**** |
#7
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making some mounts to attach the cantilevers to the top deck
and attached like so had to make 4 little top hats that the cantilever bearings slide over to space it from the mounts a bit. |
#8
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Just occured to me I dont have anywhere to mount the steering servo, so im going to replace one of the braces with this.
using some chunky 8mm thick trimmed the outside so it slots in then buzzed the middle out servo fits ok and sits flat. holes drilled very carefully to get them in the right spots done up tight and no tweeking of the axle so im happy with that |
#9
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Don't forget axle link plates they normally go behind the C hub part of the axle. I mounted my servo's vertically for clearance
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#10
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Really looking forward to the finished product on this one. Love to see a bit of custom engineering....
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#11
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Superb quality stuff.
Cant wait for the finish product... Jerzi |
#12
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Not sure if i'll bother making plates for the end of the axle, not like i'll run this one much... if ever.
Thanks for the support, nice of you to say These bits will hold the body posts that wil come out the side of the chassis top deck. something like that no need for all the spare metal in the middle Got my cheap trackstar shocks from hobbyking, pretty decent actually. Eventually worked out where im mounting the shocks, so I can now trim out some material from the top deck. |
#13
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Suspension is on after a lot of faffing around to get the right angles
pretty tight but the geometry is sound. Trial fit of everything before polishing. |
#14
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Ok thats pretty much it, its polishing time............... I hate polishing.
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#15
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Wow looks amazing, how do you polish it?
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#16
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good job!!!
__________________
Atomic Carbon S2 swb B4 Hara edition Durango 2007 replica ( http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163715 ) |
#17
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Depends how shiney you want it. So start with 600 grit wet, if there are marks/scratches in the piece your working on, a lot of these parts are pretty clean, so a lot I started with 1000 grit then worked up to 1500, then 2000 for some bits. Then a quick going over with the metal polish, but thats like the last 2 minutes of the operation, the sanding takes the majority of the time.
Thank you, I appreciate that. |
#18
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Made the body posts out of Delrin
totally forgot I had to make top links too, slipped my mind, anyway polishing done and assembly is going ok made up the little antiroll bar links and other bits and pieces Body posts in and steering linkage made up, also rear steering lock out suspension is a bit soft at the moment and I need to make some wheel wideners. Im making some that use 1 nylock nut to hold the wheel on, not those barrel nuts that come undone! |
#19
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Looks awesome mate
__________________
I live with fear everyday....sometimes she lets me race!!!! Schumacher F1..The original KF. TLR 5.0 AC .. FORSALE |
#20
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Amazing! That is some high quality work!
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