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#1
11-11-2012
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Indoor astro set up
Hi guys I ran at turf wars at southport today which was indoor astro and really struggled with my set up, it's a surface that's very different to normal outdoor astro and incredibly high grip level and bite.
The Main problem I had was it having major push on power and then diving off power, now I know this is caused by the weight transferring back and forward excessively but for the life of me for all the changes I made though out the day couldn't stop that awful handling characteristic of pushing and diving. Any set ups or set up advice for this surface would be much appreciated Gavin 
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#3
12-11-2012
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Front
Oil 35 Pistons 55 Blue springs Axles low. (didn't realise I'd left this from a previous polished floor meeting until after the meeting admittedly I know this make it aggressive) Shock position tower middle, wishbone middle. Ride height 20 Camber link 2 (shortest) 0 spacer inside 2mm outside Camber 1 deg Tyres Schumacher yellow cut stagger no insert 0 deg toe 2mm bump spacer Rear Oil 32.5 Piston 3 hole 1.5 mm Spring yellow Ride height 20 mm Toe 4 deg HRC 2deg anti squat Camber 1 deg Camber link 1 inside, furthest back and second widest hole on hub 75 gram under lipo Chassis converted to side by side saddle and turnbuckle link from gearbox Schumacher yellow mini spikes light blue medium insert Forward cab shell
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#4
12-11-2012
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There's a couple of elements on your setup that I can't comment on such as the chassis mod you have made and the 3 hole 1.5mm pistons but I would suggest that a longer front link may have helped along with raising the inner ball stud on the front by 2mm.
I'd also suggest limiters under the pistons in the front to help reduce the weight transfer. Not sure what caster and kick angle you were running? But off the top of my head, 20 deg kick with 10 deg caster would hold the nose in the turn longer than 25/5 would. Hope this helps as a starter.
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#5
12-11-2012
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Birkdale 22 set-up.
If your racing at turf wars round 3 on the 2nd of December come and see me and we'll get it set up.
John Kirkman.
__________________
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...s/srcc-2-2.gif
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#6
12-11-2012
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Are you running a ball diff?
assume you are running mid motor?! Are you running drag brake? if you are on a high grip track then strong drag brake or running strong initial braking will cause weight to transfer faster than needed. as the weight is slung to front it will cause the pushing. I would try black front springs with 37.5 losi oil and pink rear springs. stiffer front springs and oil will help weight transfer under braking/slowing for corner entry. Are rear pistons tapered? just wondering if running tapered rears and standard fronts would be causing faster dive as weight moves away from rear try dropping ride height to 18mm too... i found the 22 is very sensitive to ride height Have you tried changing back to standard body? the forward cab could be giving too much downforce on front end... not really something the 22 needs on slower sections but i found it does help high speed corner stability. The chassis mod sounds interesting, got any pics?... i tried rotated saddles on mid car but kept motor guard as removing it gave far too much chassis flex front to back, assume you have removed guard and use a turnbuckle to stop this? As Gnarly says, Kick up and castor angle are important and strongly affect the weight transfer.
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#7
12-11-2012
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I was running 25/5 caster and tried both black/pink and blue yellow combonations with no avail.
Yes your spot on with the mod that's what the link is for, I've not finished it yet at the moment I'm running b44 battery bars with the link to one side which is temporary, I've just received a new piece of CF to fabricate a new lipo brace which is a little stiffer and can then have the link directly in the centre. No the pistons are just drilled out standard
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#8
12-11-2012
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Also I must stress this is the first time I've had problems like this. It's just on this surface which baffles me as didn't think indoor astro would be so different to outdoor astro
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#9
12-11-2012
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Quote:
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#11
13-11-2012
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Cheers pal, interesting to see the LRC block used I've generally been told high roll centre on high grip but who'd argue with bloomers....
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#12
13-11-2012
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In my opinion the LRC will generate more traction but let go towards the latter stage of the turn. The HRC block generates less overal traction but is more progressive in the way it breaks away, so if you have a bunch of HRC blocks maybe just start off by reducing the toe and see how it goes; especially if you have a lot of traction to start with. Having said that, if you are going to put DB set up on you have to go the whole hog to get a true feel for it.
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