410 rear driveshaft getting VERY HOT

[nobby]

Can anybody help?
I'v been running my 410 for about 6 months now, and i'v never had a problem with the car until the last month.
The rear inner driveshaft has started to get VERY HOT to the point of the thread lock on the grub screw that holds the Bevel gear to the driveshaft melted, and fell on to the cells, melted the case.
I'm using D joints, and the drivetrain feels free.
There is quite a bit of play in the drivetrain I.e. D joint barrels.

I have been running in doors.
Here's a quick breakdown of my setup if it helps:
Front diff 7000wt
Rear diff 5000wt
D joints
6.5 hpi flux pro
Gearing 87 24


The motor does get warm, but nothing out of the ordinary.
It's just the normal Durango heat, but the rear driveshaft is really starting to concern me as it's red hot.

I'm racing outdoors at the oople series at stotfold this weekend so I would really like to figure this one out before I get there.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers.

[Bernie_W]

You probably have already checked, but first thing that comes to mind are bearings, I would check all of them.

Bernie

[nobby]

Hi all bearings are free, and clean.

[nobby]

i'm going to give the car a complete strip down, and rebuild today.
so i'll post here if i find the problem.

but in the meantime, if anyone has the answer i would love to hear it.

[Rebelrc]

Oiling the joint will help

[nobby]

Originally Posted by Rebelrc

Oiling the joint will help

tried it.

[jo90]

Do as you said, strip it all right down to bare bones and as you put it together check all steps where parts need to rotate. If the DS is getting hot it will likely be something either slipper end binding and the heat is transfering or at the GB end.

[Chalkie]

Originally Posted by nobby

There is quite a bit of play in the drivetrain I.e. D joint barrels.

I would think this is the problem, as the joints wear thay can start to bind up.

[Adam Skelding]

My checklist would be:

1: Bearings.

2: Then check the end float of the G/Box input D/S on the input gear. If it's running tight then you might be causing excessive friction by putting too much preload on the bearings. Normally I put the input gear between the bearings and mount it in the gearbox half. Then slide on the collar until there is almost no play and tighten the grub screw. Spin up the shaft and it should feel nice and free with no end float.

3: Check the barrel and CVD pins in the Djoint. I replace mine about once every couple of months (useage dependant). I use the Tamiya anti wear grease to extend the life of my CVD's, it's a bit thick but really lowers the wear. Once the pin wears then the barrel and cvd joint get an increased amount of battering due to the slop induces by the wear.

My guess is that #2 will be the main issue a little too tight can mean a hot gearbox.

[Kiixx]

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

I use the Tamiya anti wear grease to extend the life of my CVD's, it's a bit thick but really lowers the wear. Once the pin wears then the barrel and cvd joint get an increased amount of battering due to the slop induces by the wear.

Adam, is Tamiya better than TD gear Grease ?, i use that, and cover it with a outer driveshaft boot, that seems to keep the in-car drive shafts in good condition, and free of binding...

[mariobrito]

Check your slipper temperature after you run. The heat from the slipper transfers really well to the driveshaft.

[KennyClark]

I had similar bother with my 410 at the weekend.
Rear driveshaft was getting hot and one of the pins in the Djoint became loose.
Just stripped the car today and noticed there was a lot of play in the coupling.
The pins show signs of wear.
I will be rebuilding the car with the original style driveshafts.