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#1
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tekin rs pro temp
hope someone can help. Iv always been a hobbywing\orion user, but after all my gear was stolen last week i picked up a tekin rspro\flux combo from a friend. I wired it all up yesterday. Making sure it didn't get hot as i always do. Gone to use it last night and its generating a lot of heat. By 3 mins in getting a stutter every known and then and loosing power. Its got a brand new sensor lead. I changed the motor, bought the settings right down and bought the gearing down (smaller pinion 23/18, 8.5 to a 6.5 motor in a losi 22) but it did the same. I noticed while soldering it up i did lean on the cap with the iron and it did begin to melt it, could this be the problem? Also if anyone could tell me the caps rating as i dont have my car on me i was going to go maplins and get a new one.
cheers for any reply!
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Inside line racing Srt Maclan Moody fools Richpaint Gmcc |
#2
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Can you tell us what your speedo settings are ??
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{CML Distribution} {Penguin Bodyshells} |
#3
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Replace cap, stick RS onto a hotwire and check settings
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#4
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in not 100% sure on full settings but it was a pre loaded profile with 25 degrees turbo i think. Number 5 profile rings a bell? It seemed overly fast at the end of the straight but i was on my usual gearing for them particular motors.
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Inside line racing Srt Maclan Moody fools Richpaint Gmcc |
#5
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Settings will be a big factor, dual or sensored mode, timing, current limiter, throttle profile etc. Get it on a hotwire and let us know what you have it set at, but as Dave said, change the cap to just in case you damaged it. Kit spec is 16v 330uf.
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{CML Distribution} {Penguin Bodyshells} |
#6
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i couldn't get a 330uf 16v but i see on the tekin site about a 1000uf 16v one, is this ok? Or would a hobbywing one work?
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Inside line racing Srt Maclan Moody fools Richpaint Gmcc |
#7
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any capacitor will work, and will be an improvement on a broken capacitor (which will give erratic operation and heat build up), but most importantly, we need your esc setup to ascertain if that is the issue.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#8
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iv got my settings.
boost 25 start rpm 5443 end rpm 20016 turbo delay 0.5 turbo 0 drag brake 15 brake strength 100 push control off brake minimum 20 active braking 3 neutral width 16 current limit off reverse speed 100 throttle minimum 5 timing 3 Again in extreamly new to tekin esc's. This is the set up it was pretty much given to me but i did turn it all down. Profile wise anyway. Its on 223 update. Please let me know on bits that are wrong. Ill be running this in my 22 with a flux 8.5 thanks for the help guys
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Inside line racing Srt Maclan Moody fools Richpaint Gmcc |
#9
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Right, let me tackle this.... if it is in Sensored mode, it WILL get warm and it will take it out of your battery. But it is usable in that mode. Also, the more brakes you run, the hotter it will get. You got two options, run sensored or run dual mode.
If running dual mode: Set timing slider to 80% If running sensored: (starting point) Boost to 12 Turbo to 10 Delay 0.5 Turbo Ramp 1 End RPM around 20,000 start RPM around 3,000 General settings: Drag Brake - as little as possible Brake Strength - 100% Brake minimum - 5 Active Braking - try it in off or 1 to see if that gives you enough neutral width - 6-8% Current Limiter 80-85% Reverse Speed - 0 Hope that helps.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
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top man cheers dcm ill have a go at changing it all. Say its all new to me. Hopefully this solves my heat issues as after what happened to my original stuff, i was getting really disheartened with the issues i was having.
looking forward to getting it back on track again. cheers again
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Inside line racing Srt Maclan Moody fools Richpaint Gmcc |
#11
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Out of interest you haven't covered the terminals in heat shrink have you. From memory there the heat sinks for the speedo, I was told to always leave them uncovered.
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I live with fear everyday....sometimes she lets me race!!!! Schumacher F1..The original KF. TLR 5.0 AC .. FORSALE |
#12
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I agree with Dave, but would push towards the Dual mode. Knock the active brake down to zero, you shouldn't really need it higher off road, certainly not in a 2wd with 8.5t. If you still get issues then knock the timing right back to zero and work your way up until temps seem better. Don't forget you can check the temperature on the led's on the speedo
Quote:
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{CML Distribution} {Penguin Bodyshells} |
#13
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iv set it up in dual mode mate. I only had 0 to 30 on the timing slider so iv set it to 20 for now just to start off there. Thank you for all the help guys its hugely appreciated.
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Inside line racing Srt Maclan Moody fools Richpaint Gmcc |
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