Advice Required on First Build (DB01R v B44)

[SimonBes]

Hi All.

I'm getting back into the sport after many years off, and require some advice.

I've been looking at 4x4 1/10 offroad cars, and have narrowed it down to two:
Tamiya DB01R
Team Associated B44
I can get them both for similar prices (including the bits that you don't get with the DB01R), although living in NZ the postage is the big cost.

I was looking at Novak for ESC/motor, probably around 8.5T and brushless.

And the cheaper Futaba 2PL 2.4GHz transmitter.

My concern with the DB01R is that the build might be too difficult?
Although it seems to have more upgrades that are more readily available.

I've been looking through Tower Hobbies and RC Model (Hong Kong).

I was looking at the 3Racing rear shock tower, as I read that the DB01 one was too low, but have been warned off 3Racing ones.

So my basic question is B44 or DB01R and why?!

All advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Simon

[passy]

I don't have any experience of the DB01R, however the B44 is very easy to assemble and no extra upgrades are needed as it is race ready out of the box. (except for maybe a rear anti-roll bar)

Paul.

[Spoolio]

I have a DB01 hopped up to R spec and above. The build is a doddle as long as you assemble the diffs correctly and don't miss the tiny tiny "rotate assembly" arrow part way through the build or else it messes it all up.

Personally, for racing I'd have a B44 - debatable whether its a better car per se, but it is a damn sight easier to live with.

[DCM]

you wouldn't be dissapointed with either car, to be fair, although, I think the Tamiya will be a little more 'robust' than the B44.

[scotoap]

Originally Posted by DCM

you wouldn't be dissapointed with either car, to be fair, although, I think the Tamiya will be a little more 'robust' than the B44.

I agree with you DCM,even my 501 is stronger than the B44.

[SimonBes]

Originally Posted by DCM

you wouldn't be dissapointed with either car, to be fair, although, I think the Tamiya will be a little more 'robust' than the B44.

Cheers!

I'm guessing you'd recommend Tekin gear, but they are more expensive than Novak.

What do you think of this combo:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=SM&I=LXVWB9

And recommendations for a Lipo charger? I'm told I need to look for peak detection.

Cheers!

Simon

[DCM]

you will be pushing that ESC to the max, as 8.5 is going to feel slow very quick, you will then want a faster motor, and you can't, on that ESC. The bennefit of the Tekin system, is you don't need to run a fan, and if you get the USB Hotwire, any new firmware that comes out, is easy to update on the RS. The bennefit of the Tekin motor, is that unless you burn out the windings, everything is replaceable on that motor, so rotor, timing sensor, sensor plug, rotor, bearings.

LiPo charging, get one that will balance charge up to 5A, and it MUST be a lipo charger.

[SimonBes]

Originally Posted by DCM

you will be pushing that ESC to the max, as 8.5 is going to feel slow very quick, you will then want a faster motor, and you can't, on that ESC. The bennefit of the Tekin system, is you don't need to run a fan, and if you get the USB Hotwire, any new firmware that comes out, is easy to update on the RS. The bennefit of the Tekin motor, is that unless you burn out the windings, everything is replaceable on that motor, so rotor, timing sensor, sensor plug, rotor, bearings.

LiPo charging, get one that will balance charge up to 5A, and it MUST be a lipo charger.

What motor/esc would you recommend, and from where?
Any issues with compatability with Lipo's?
Cheers!

[DCM]

at least a 7.5, depending on your track, 6.5 even.

[SimonBes]

trouble is, the Tekin combos are worth more than the car itself!

[DCM]

where are you looking? Also, electrics are expensive.

[SimonBes]

Tower Hobbies - US$300+

[peetbee]

If the budget is stretched for electrics, I can recommend the Losi Xcelorin combo, I've run them happily this year and they're good enough to win a national!

I've had both DB01 and B44 and there's not a lot to choose between them in terms of build. One advantage of the DB01 is that stick pack lipos seem to be cheaper than the corresponding saddles and are more readily available.

I'm happy to stick with my DB01 now.

[SimonBes]

To race stock you need a 540J or similar motor - what ESC should I get? If I get the Novak one (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXVWB9&P=K) is that okay to run a stick motor off?
Anyone know where to get good tyre/wheel combos, and which I should look at for racing?
Cheers!

[scotoap]

Originally Posted by SimonBes

To race stock you need a 540J or similar motor - what ESC should I get? If I get the Novak one (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXVWB9&P=K) is that okay to run a stick motor off?
Anyone know where to get good tyre/wheel combos, and which I should look at for racing?
Cheers!

Hi Simon,
I think your confusing yourself when you refer to 540J motor, thats the usual bog standard brushed cheap Johnson motor provided in most RTR basic kits.

What you are looking for is a 540 size motor which refers to the motors dimensions, and can be brushed or brushless.

Most people with sound advice go for a brushless motor, less hassle and maintenance and the prices are already coming down to reasonable levels.

If your looking at maybe racing stock class in a club, stock class is 27 Turn rated motors brushed or brushless designs, most brushless stock motors are refered to as 13.5T motors.

I have run Novak and Losi combos for a couple of years and as said previously the losi is better value for the money especially as the usbcable and equipment you get with it lets you update and set your own parameters in the ESC. via this facility so as your skills alter you can adjust the speedos response characteristics to suite.

Just to confuse you there are two main designs of brushless motors, sensored and sensorless.

Most people in my opinion go for sensored as in my experience they are smoother in operation; you can find on most RC web sites all the pros and cons conscerning both types.

Regarding wheel tyre combos it initially depends on which car you get as the hub mountings (inside the wheel) can vary the most common is 12mm hex next is pin type.

Next is the type of surface you will be racing or bashing on, as the tyres range from very soft slicks to numerous tread patterns and foam rubber also, just like 1 : 1 F1 tyres so ask the fellows at the club you will be racing at and/or the shop your buying fromfor their advice, after that its more a matter of what the pocket can stretch to and personal taste.
Hope this has helped and good luck

[SimonBes]

But I thought there were races for 'stock' motors, meaning you could only use 540's?
I'm going for the DB01, guessing the std tamiya tyres will do for now.
Where do you recommend purchasing the losi combo from, and how many turns brushless shoudl I start with?
Also, does the tyre glue directly to the wheel, or do you need something underneath, or am I confusing myself with regard to foam inserts?!
Thanks for your advice so far!

[peetbee]

You just superglue the tyre to the wheel, you don't need too much, just a bead around the outside of the tyre.
The inserts are to there to provide support to the tyre.

[scotoap]

Originally Posted by SimonBes

But I thought there were races for 'stock' motors, meaning you could only use 540's?
I'm going for the DB01, guessing the std tamiya tyres will do for now.
Where do you recommend purchasing the losi combo from, and how many turns brushless shoudl I start with?
Also, does the tyre glue directly to the wheel, or do you need something underneath, or am I confusing myself with regard to foam inserts?!
Thanks for your advice so far!

As peetbee says, but if you just put the tyre on the rim with the foam insert, making sure it all sits nice and squarely (ie when you spin the wheel, it runs true, the beads are snug against the rim all round etc.) then I put a hex driver or small screw driver blade in between the rim and tyre, and just the tiniest drop of superglue applied then quickly remove the blade and presto the tyre should slip back nice and snug.
I do this four to five times around both sides of the rim, its enough to secure the tyre and makes removal later that much easier.

Motor wind wise, UK stock means 27Turn brushed and 13.5Turn brushless,

Suppliers, the usual webwise good reputation ones, but check the prices from their sites and availability, also your local hobby shop and the supplier your going to buy the Tamiya from as you can get some all in one good overall prices that way.

In short its a buyers market, Haggle is the word of the game these days and always ask for a discount, its your hard earned cash your spending after all.