more problems.

[Nigel]

well im starting to have second thoughts on my purchase on this buggy. because i seem to have problem after problem now

problem 1: my diff's are really smooth but when i put the diff's drive shafts into the slipper/spur assembly and try to spin it i feel a lot of friction. too much to be normal.

so i took out the diff's and just put my spur/slipper assembly onto its mount that it sits on when its in the buggy and when i spun it i felt a lot of friction. so this is my problem with the too much friction.

has anyone else had this problem? if so how do you fix it or dose it go away after a couple of runs?

problem 2: my front diff seems to be losing a lot of its diff fluid ad my rear has lost a bit and i have not even run my buggy yet. i even followed all the diff building instructions online perfectly. is there any seals i can use to fix this problem? i have seen threads about this before. but i have not even run my buggy yet so im wondering if something else is wrong with my diffs.

problem 3: on my spur/slipper assembly the side that is longer seems to be crooked. i noticed this when i put the diff drive shafts in and spun it. because the whole shaft started to wobble. im not really sure what the heck is wrong here since i assembled it all correctly (at least i think i did.)




not really a problem but dose anyone use these little round plastic piece's that go over the end of the drive shaft because i had a hard time putting them on but when i got them on they kept popping off.

[OoD1S]

Problem 1: Mate check the bearings, you may have a seized one. My car had a total of 5 mins on it and i had 5 seized bearings. (must be super quality bearings from Kazakhstan).

Problem 2: The kit diff seals are shit there is no other way to beat around the bush, I have had success by using standard xrings but before i put them in i put a shit tin of grease on them then place them into there moldings they will still leak but it takes a bit longer for it to start. I have tryed P5 kyosho rings but they did not free up enough to be usable for me.
There are tresrey ones but they are P5 ones aswell but they may be a different compound and loosen up more? ANYONE BUELER BUELER !

Problem 3: Check the fitment of the pin that goes into that part ie does it sit straight, mine is a little off and does wobble a bit but does not affect the car at all. The little covers on the drive shaft piss them off, they are very annoying i use good thread lock on grub screw and then put heat shrink over that. ( I had a problem where the little pin did not have the cut out directly center of pin so it would work its way loose all the time even with the plastic cover on, solution was to get a new pin that had a correctly cut out bit on it no probs at all now).

I feel your pain man everyone said how good the workmanship is on these cars but mine did not have the same quality i guess mine was a friday afternoon car!

Hope this helps you.

[captainlip]

Originally Posted by OoD1S

I feel your pain man everyone said how good the workmanship is on these cars but mine did not have the same quality i guess mine was a friday afternoon car!

Hope this helps you.

coolio

[Kurtje]

I use the tresrey rings and they are very good... No leeks at all, put some green slime on it and right into the diffs...

The wobble with the slipper, that problem i have also... Don't know where it's coming from But it doesn't affect the driving skills...

[jimmy]

The DNX408 shock seals can be used in place of the X-rings. I'm surprised you're having them leak without even running though, sounds very odd indeed.

Problem 1 and 3 sound to be the same thing. I'd check your slipper pads are properly located in the spur gear if you're having too much friction as a skewed slipper shaft wouldn't really give you loads of friction?

Drop TD an email at support@team-durango.com

[Fabs]

Originally Posted by Kurtje

I use the tresrey rings and they are very good... No leeks at all, put some green slime on it and right into the diffs...

The wobble with the slipper, that problem i have also... Don't know where it's coming from But it doesn't affect the driving skills...

Leek's nice but it gives bad breath if you're not careful

[Big G]

The last issue I had to do what Jimmy did



The rear one finally went on, but the front snapped. I've never had a problem with the pins coming out though. I've now got little boots over both CVD's to stop dust, etc getting into the grease.

Best thing to do is contact durango. they are more than helpful when it comes to support via email or trackside

[stegger]

Originally Posted by Big G

The last issue I had to do what Jimmy did



The rear one finally went on, but the front snapped. I've never had a problem with the pins coming out though. I've now got little boots over both CVD's to stop dust, etc getting into the grease.

Best thing to do is contact durango. they are more than helpful when it comes to support via email or trackside

I've also heard of people boiling there rings !!! So they go on better

[Reo]

i drop the plastic rings and use a shrinking tube

[RC John]

Originally Posted by OoD1S

( I had a problem where the little pin did not have the cut out directly center of pin so it would work its way loose all the time even with the plastic cover on, solution was to get a new pin that had a correctly cut out bit on it no probs at all now).

I have this problem as well, along with the others mentioned. I ordered a new package of 2mm pins and they all had cut outs that were not centered, just like the ones that came with my kit. I fixed the problem by cutting the cut outs better with my dremel. The pins have stayed in place since I've done this, and I don't bother with the little plastic collar, which I agree is a pain in the ass.

[RC John]

Originally Posted by OoD1S

I feel your pain man everyone said how good the workmanship is on these cars but mine did not have the same quality i guess mine was a friday afternoon car!

I believe all durangos are made on Fridays.

[Dazzler]

Originally Posted by RC John

I believe all durangos are made on Fridays.

I think it's more a case of they are assembled on Fridays..

For instance, Captainlips diffs are a classic example, where on inspection all the threads were stripped in the diff housing, and he wondered why things were going out of mesh and gears were stripping.

If you disregard the builder errors, it would be fair to say there are no more issues than would be expected of any mass produced kit. And for every customer that reported on a forum that they had a problem, I'm sure there are hundreds of satisfied customers.

As for the original poster, don't regret your purchase, just resolve your little niggles as the chassis is great.

As Jimmy has suggested above, problems 1 & 3 will almost certainly be related, as the bearings should be running true on the axis of the spur/slipper assy. Have you checked that you have not cross threaded the rear (long) drive cup??

Problem 2, take your choice of seals available and advised on this forum, but I am running standard X rings with no issues.

As for the plastic driveshaft rings, think of them as a safety device for people who can't build CVD's

[Nigel]

well with problem 1: none of my bearings are seized. but i forgot to put the shims in on both the sides and now it seems to be smooth (it used to be hard to turn and then easy in some parts) but i can still feel some friction but maybe i am over rating it

and with problem 2: i will just have to end up getting some tresrey seals then are these the ones? http://www.tresrey-usa.com/products/...7D8pcs%29.html

and problem 3: i am going to try rebuilding my slipper and see how it works. but no from what i can tell i have not cross threaded the slipper/spur long drive cup. but i just found out my spur is also wobbling a bit too when i spin it.

[Nigel]

ok i just rebuilt my slipper/spur twice now and i still have the wobble. so i guess i will just have to leave it there.

[jimmy]

You can leave it sure - but I suggested you to contact TD support, it's your choice to leave it or sort it out.

[Nigel]

ok i will contact TD then.

[RC John]

Originally Posted by Dazzler

If you disregard the builder errors, it would be fair to say there are no more issues than would be expected of any mass produced kit.

I could not disagree with you more. I've built quite a few kits in my 12 years in this hobby. The durango definitely has had more issues than any car I've built.
As I said before, the cut outs on my CVDs were not cut in the middle. Even the replacement I bought were offset. I don't think dremeling set screw slots should be considered a part of "proper assembly"
I also had to dremel the shaft on the bevel gear P/N 310005, because the shaft was too long and I could not squeeze the assembly to eliminate play in the bearings.
The plastics used throughout the kit is too weak. I've never had to replace the servo horn or servo saver on a car till I got the durango. The rear gearbox positioner and the rear gearbox inserts also are too weak. Durangos fix is to replace everything with aluminum. That works, but it would have been way cheaper to use a better plastic.
I could not believe that even the stock body doesn't fit without hitting the spur gear cover. I know they raised the gear assembly to allow the use of thicker Lipos, but how about changing the body so it fits.
Now that I've fixed all the issues I know of, I'm pretty happy with my car, but to say the fit and finish of the durango is excellent, or that it's as good as any other kit, I don't think so.

[Bozzspeed]

Where are you diffs leaking from?

near the outdrive cups (seals)

or

where the diff gear screws to the diff case.

[Bozzspeed]

Im with you Dazzler.

RC John - did you sit on your body for it to hit the gear cover? I don't understand how you can manage to get the body to do this.

[JohnM]

Originally Posted by RC John

I could not disagree with you more. I've built quite a few kits in my 12 years in this hobby. The durango definitely has had more issues than any car I've built.
As I said before, the cut outs on my CVDs were not cut in the middle. Even the replacement I bought were offset. I don't think dremeling set screw slots should be considered a part of "proper assembly"
I also had to dremel the shaft on the bevel gear P/N 310005, because the shaft was too long and I could not squeeze the assembly to eliminate play in the bearings.
The plastics used throughout the kit is too weak. I've never had to replace the servo horn or servo saver on a car till I got the durango. The rear gearbox positioner and the rear gearbox inserts also are too weak. Durangos fix is to replace everything with aluminum. That works, but it would have been way cheaper to use a better plastic.
I could not believe that even the stock body doesn't fit without hitting the spur gear cover. I know they raised the gear assembly to allow the use of thicker Lipos, but how about changing the body so it fits.
Now that I've fixed all the issues I know of, I'm pretty happy with my car, but to say the fit and finish of the durango is excellent, or that it's as good as any other kit, I don't think so.

Thing is, I couldn't disagree with you more John, I would say that I've had less issues with my Durango, then any other car I've had in the last 29 years of playing with RC cars.