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  #1  
Old 21-12-2011
sprintir sprintir is offline
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Default Mad Rat clutch slip with brushless motor

I read somewhere that one way to set the clutch up was to hold the back of the car and apply full throttle and the front wheels should just come of the ground. this i managed to do with a brushed motor.

I've now upgraded to a brushless set-up using a 9t 4300kv motor, but I've been unable to stop the clutch from slipping even with minimal throttle while holding the car and if applying to much throttle while moving.

I've checked the clutch to make sure it's aligned which it seems to be, the plates are in the recess.
can you tell me how much the adjuster clutch nut needs to be wound in,can you adjust it until there is no more adjustment left , can the adjuster nut be wound all the way in then backed off until the clutch starts to slip etc.

I have also upgraded the ball bearing in the diff I think the diff is adjusted ok but any advice would be great.
do you need to upgrade the clutch plates?
Thanks
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Old 21-12-2011
Cameo Cameo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintir View Post
I read somewhere that one way to set the clutch up was to hold the back of the car and apply full throttle and the front wheels should just come of the ground. this i managed to do with a brushed motor.

I've now upgraded to a brushless set-up using a 9t 4300kv motor, but I've been unable to stop the clutch from slipping even with minimal throttle while holding the car and if applying to much throttle while moving.

I've checked the clutch to make sure it's aligned which it seems to be, the plates are in the recess.
can you tell me how much the adjuster clutch nut needs to be wound in,can you adjust it until there is no more adjustment left , can the adjuster nut be wound all the way in then backed off until the clutch starts to slip etc.

I have also upgraded the ball bearing in the diff I think the diff is adjusted ok but any advice would be great.
do you need to upgrade the clutch plates?
Thanks
Your motor should not effect this (slipper setting) at all.
What sound is coming from the gearbox?
a. A true slipping sound (like a buzz)
b. A barking sound

With your diff setting (I'd think this could be the problem) the easiest way to confirm it is to fully tighten it (just to the point where the spring bottoms out or finger tight) the back it out 1/8 of a turn.

Try your slipper again after that
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Old 21-12-2011
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racingben racingben is offline
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More than likely it's the diff slipping. Mine did on the rat / monkey.

I put ceramic balls in and added 3mm of a spare rod end between the spring and the locknut. This gives a smooth diff that can just about hold the power of a 6.5 motor.
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Old 21-12-2011
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
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Run a 5.5T in my monkey with no problems, clutch slips slightly but nothing drastic.
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Old 21-12-2011
sprintir sprintir is offline
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thanks guys for your feedback

As I'm new to the sport I'm not sure what the differences in sound are but it sounded like a whining sound it seems to me a higher frequency. I would presume if a diff was to tight it would a low frequency grinding sound!!
What i have noticed was when I turned one wheel by hand with very light force the other wheel turned in the opposite direction if I turned the wheel faster/harder the other wheel didn't turn. I'm sure the motor didn't turn but I check
I would of thought the motor should turn when the wheel is turned when the diff is set up correct ?

When I had the brushed motor attached I did adjust the diff to a point when I rotated one wheel the other wheel wouldn't turn I thought this can't be right so backed of the adjuster until the wheel rotated.
With the brushless motor I've fitted ceramic ball bearing.

If I apply full power from stand still the sound i get seems to be a buzzing/higher frequency type sound.
If i pull away with less power you can here the buzz/whine then it stops but returns if i put full power on while the car is moving.

as for your diff setting instructions
Cameo
just to confirm adjust the bolt until the spring is fully compressed then back off 1/8 of a turn then check the diff movement turns with your fingers.

When I get the diff set up how much slip/ adjustment should the clutch have?

Racingben I presume that adding the 3mm sleeve/shim gives you more tension?

Hello lordnikon how are you did you go to Torch on Sunday? How did you set up your diff and clutch
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Old 22-12-2011
Cameo Cameo is offline
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How fitting a few short video clips about this by Jared Tebo

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/
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Old 22-12-2011
Cameo Cameo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintir View Post
thanks guys for your feedback

Cameo
just to confirm adjust the bolt until the spring is fully compressed then back off 1/8 of a turn then check the diff movement turns with your fingers.
Yes, infact back it off and break it in like JT explains in the video to get an even better diff action. Then set the slipper as he shows and BINGO
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Old 22-12-2011
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Yes the shim is to get as much tension as I can. You can only do this with ceramic balls though. I tried it with the STD balls and it sounded like a cement mixer and felt horrible!

The next step I think is to superglue the diff rings to the outdrives. I think this is what gives the last bit of slip in my diff.

I should point out that I don't use the slipper clutch - never have done. In the same way I never used esc torque profiles in touring cars. I like to control what the car gets.
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Old 22-12-2011
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintir View Post
Hello lordnikon how are you did you go to Torch on Sunday? How did you set up your diff and clutch
Not been for a while now, too hectic with work unfortunately. Did you go for the same 9T setup i had ? Happy to have a look at yours, probably back at torch second weekend in Jan now realistically
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Old 22-12-2011
sprintir sprintir is offline
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Hi Guys thanks for all your help
Cameo you didn't have to stay up half the night to reply but thanks for the links it was a great help.

Yes the problem was the diff and I’ve backed off the clutch. As the ground is damp with bold tyres, I’ve stopped the slipping sound and power slides here I come (or i should say my son power slides here he comes) but the real test will be when on the track with the proper tyres.

Lordnikon I got a 9T 4300kv ez-run motor with hobbyking 60A ESC with programming card. that will be great if you can test the car next time i'm down the track not sure if we can make it on the 8th as it’s my son’s B'Day weekend but hopefully make it the next W/E , drop me a PM when you can make it.
Have a great Xmas guys thanks again for all your help
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  #11  
Old 22-12-2011
Cameo Cameo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintir View Post
Hi Guys thanks for all your help
Cameo you didn't have to stay up half the night to reply but thanks for the links it was a great help.
I'm just very dedicated to helping out you should see the outfit Ansmann/Team C make me wear

Glad you've sorted the problem
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