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Old 22-01-2012
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Default Securing the Lipo in an X6 squared

Hi all

I'm currently securing the Lipo in my X6 squared using the 4 Hex bolts which came with the conversion kit.

Whilst this works perfectly fine, it's a bit time consuming when wishing to remove the Lipo from the car (for charging, storage etc).

Can anyone suggest any alternative methods or modifications in order to make this process easier and quicker (ie body clips/thumbscrews etc).

Thanks
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Old 22-01-2012
GML GML is offline
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I'v already seen a cut carbon on the side posts (so you can remove it without unscrewing anything) and thumbscrews on the 2 other posts on the inside (because of clearance of the body). I haven't picture but I'm sure that someone here have done the same.
I think that standard clips like on B4.0 are the quickest way to remove batteries
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Old 22-01-2012
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I use 2 quick change thumb screws and 1 not-totally-screwed-in hex bolt for body clearance issue. It doesn't move and it's very easy to change. I would'nt recommend it with the transmission brace though.



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Old 22-01-2012
Spoolio Spoolio is offline
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I used 4 FT thumbscrews and cut the body so it sat a few mm higher and it worked fine.
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Old 23-01-2012
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Will probably go with using the AE thumscrews, is the thread provided with them long enough?
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  #6  
Old 23-01-2012
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The Squared body, which is squared-off from the original, is made using the same mold as the original. When the car was designed LiPos were around, but not in general use -- actually not legal in U.K. -- so the car was designed around cells. The first LiPos, about 3600 mah, fit fine, but, since the length and width of batteries is fixed, the bigger LiPos are taller.

The body was designed to be slammed, so now you should cut the body below the cut line, thus raising it up to clear (barely) the newer cells. We also suggest you stick to about a 4200 cell, which should provide all the power and run time you want. (Paul gets about 10 minutes of solid time from his Protek "shorty" 4200s)

We make #1225 LiPo quick release kit which uses studs instead of bolts -- taking the nut off is faster and you don't unscrew and re-screw the bolt into the plastic, eventually wearing out the threads in the chassis. We also make #1226 Real Men Wear Black stand-off kit to raise the battery strap for the taller LiPos yet keep the strap tight. The stand-offs are good-looking black and it comes with black nylock nuts. Cool! Your LHS should have both.

The battery strap is designed to add stiffness in a critical area, and we recommend against slotting the strap for removal purposes. Plus, as stated above, you can use the tranny brace with a slotted strap, but you lose most of the effect.
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