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#1
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HI
I am changing over to a new chassis and thought I'd upgrade the rear diff with the Kyosho Genuine Steel Diff Shaft Set. Unfortunately the washers that go against the bearings do not fit the steel set....they are like a normal washer but with two opposite flat sides. Do I just go ahead and fit these? It looks like the one on the longer metal part will just flap about! Has anyone fitted this part and can explain if I need to get some new washers or if I'm just being a dunce. Quick reply would be appreciated as I wanna get my new Losi motor in an rag this baby! ![]() |
#2
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Are you talking about the diff rings?
Ok just had a look at the exploded views. You need the part number WBD04 - pressure plate set. don't try to build the diff with your original diff rings. |
#3
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I had the same problem when i upgraded my Diff. I tried to use the orginal plates from the plastic diff, but it just kept coming loose. Can't be 100% sure that wasn't due to my lack of skills, but all seemed ok once i had the correct plates.
I find these diffs quite tricky to build, the only thing i would say is use plenty of grease, more than you would think! If it keeps comin undone then you will defo need the plates. Jez on here is always good for Kyosho parts. Thats who i got my plates off |
#4
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I find the Kyosho diffs a pure joy to build, not sure what your problem was with them.
I'll actually say please don't over grease the diffs!!!! I always try to use the minimum I can get away with. I wrote a quick guide to building Kyosho diffs in another thread (can't remember which one) ... search for "diff" in a post by me and it'll come up. Build them like that and they will be as smooth as silk for months at a time! |
#5
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I'm going to disagree with Roger here.
My experience with kyosho diffs so far is that they're a bit pants. Replaced all the balls with ceramic, but didn't make a lot of difference. It feels like the spring isn't man enough for the job. When tightening the diff it reaches a certain point when it suddenly starts clamping up. (as if the spring had become coil bound.) On my diff there is literally 1/32 turn difference between diff really free but slightly too loose and slipping and diff fully locked. - It's virtually impossible to get the setting on the diff, and it invariably changes. I try to set my diff so that the slipper just goes first. - This is very difficult to achieve! I have 2 diffs and both have the same issue. Anybody tried a different spring? If so what fits? This is with the steel diffs from the original zx5 kit |
#6
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Make sure you have the Rings round the right way, there is a copy of theoriginal ZX5 handbook on this site under reviews.
I expect others with disagree as Roger already has, but the things that have made it easier for me are 1 - Lots of grease 2 - Make sure all parts are ckean before you start 3 - tignten the diff up until tight and then got back about an 8th of a turn. I had the same problems as you to start with, but i did one today and it went together fine. Keep trying ![]() |
#7
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I'm with Roger there, Kyosho diffs are some of the best and smoothest out there.
Always use as little grease as possible and the quality of the grease is of upmost importance. I exclusively use AE Stealth lube. As for the diff being hard to set, I disagree as well, probably what's hapening is that your slipper is way too tight. My diffs are really free and don't slip, proof of that is that I could pull wheelies on carpet with the ZX5 ![]() |
#8
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Thanks all for your advice.
It all went together smooth, after the initial frustration at realising I needed different plates to the original. AH, what bliss now she is... until the kerb today got me.... ho hum, damn bank holidays, the postie ain't delivering... ![]() |
#9
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while we're on the topic, so are there the options for diff outdrives, ive found the kyotfw001 aluminium out drives and someone mentioned a plastic out drive, im looking to reduce rotational mass of the drive train, so something other than steel would be good, any advice?
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#10
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Ok here's the link to my method of building Kyosho diffs
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...ht=diff&page=5 post #85 I've never heard of anybody having problems building the Kyosho diffs unless they have made a mistake in the assembly order or similar. Hope this helps. |
#11
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Hey roger, do u know if the aluminium outdrives are a direct relapcement for the 201 steel ones?
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#12
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Probably are but I would strongly advise against them.
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#13
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do u think they'd be a bit weak fabs? could they cope with stock racing (17.5)?
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#14
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The TF red anodised alloy ones need a different diff plate from the zx-5. Cant remember if you need a different diff gear as well
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#15
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Not necessarily weak but they'll wear very fast. Also might require the use of blades as they're from the TC (not 100% sure on that as I've only got the belt car).
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#16
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Cool thanks fabs, i think ur right, they seem to come with blades, and u can actually buy the blades separately
kek, good call about the diff rings, since the aluminium outdrives are an upgrade for the on road car, i assume it would use the diff rings with the flat bits TF013 as opposed to the round ones (wbd04), luckily they both use the same bevel gear (LA200) |
#17
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ok and ive found the out drives on the rtr which is part number LA211B, anyone know what they are made of? they list the steel outdrives as an upgrade option
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#18
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think they are plastic IIRC
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#19
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thanks roger, thats better than the aluminium, a bit less bling, but just as much zing, and much cheaper too
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