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#21
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You need to secure the evidence. Then write the letter, you should be able to find letter templates from consumer direct, or a local trading standards web site.
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#22
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Just escalated to a claim with paypal but they automatically closed it because they can only do something if i never received it.
If you buy anything from the MSUK forum dont deal with *J4K3* His ebay ID is blade1110_0 He will rip you off! |
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#23
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I feel for you mate. I once bought an X1 CR from a kid in Sowerby Bridge and just like yours I couldn't get the bloody thing to run at all, same problem, the "perfect working order engine that has had 5 tanks through it" was absolutely fecked. You could turn it over by rotating the crank between thumb and forefinger with the barest trace of compression. I ended up buying another very cheap X1 CR and making the best out of 2 and flogging all the spares off to recoup some money. Then I decided electric was far cleaner so the whole nitro thing was a bit a a blind alley for me in the end anyway.
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#24
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Ive just posted on the nitro forum the bits ill have to sell to see how much people thing I will get, if anyone has an idea how much the parts are worth please have a look at my post on the nitro forum and let me know. I need to sell these parts to replace the engine on this car that i was ripped off on
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#25
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Dude, rather than getting all irrate, you should of given the seller a chance to prove the engine starts, if he can't start it either, he is screwed. Now you been to a model shop, and they have had the engine apart, you no longer have a leg to stand on.
Rather than sell, and lose your money, buy another engine, Picco P3B would be a simple engine.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#26
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Quote:
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#27
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Quote:
__________________
'John 'The Boat Wizzard' 'The Cart Wizzard' M Walton' Theres a few more but i wont go there!FG Onroad - Zenoha - Futaba Servo's - GP Mi 3.5 - Stock class - Orion - LRP - Nosram TC4 - 10.5 - Orion - Futaba Brushless Servo - LRP T4 - 6.5 Losi System - Futaba Brushless Servo DX3r - Ansmann - Muchmore - Propeak OTHERS ARE ETHER IN BITS OR IN ATTIC |
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#28
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go and tell his parents!!! sucks thay you got ripped off
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
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#29
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Having looked at the pics of your spear parts , i would keep them and buy a cheap engine , you can pick one up for about 80quid
John
__________________
'John 'The Boat Wizzard' 'The Cart Wizzard' M Walton' Theres a few more but i wont go there!FG Onroad - Zenoha - Futaba Servo's - GP Mi 3.5 - Stock class - Orion - LRP - Nosram TC4 - 10.5 - Orion - Futaba Brushless Servo - LRP T4 - 6.5 Losi System - Futaba Brushless Servo DX3r - Ansmann - Muchmore - Propeak OTHERS ARE ETHER IN BITS OR IN ATTIC |
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#30
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sorry fella, most parents would tell you to go away, in short jerky motions.
Like I said above, now you have had the engine apart, careless of who done it, or how experienced, you can not expect the seller to give you your money back, and take the car back, either. As much as you don't want to be told, but now you have had the engine out, and apart, the problem is yours, and yours only, yes, in the first place, the seller should of been more helpful, but it also sounds like he didn't know what he was doing.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#31
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without having the engine back plate taken off ther was no way of telling whats wrong with it, the split in the engine case goes along the line of the engine mount.
The guy has said hes not willing to give me anything. The parts ive put on the forum are spares, so no point in keeping them as the damn thing doesnt work to get damaged, and yeah I know a new engine costs £80 but the problem is paying for this cleared out my funds in my paypal so I cant afford a new 1. When I rang him just after I found out about the problem his mum answered and said "oh well it was working when we had it" - Yeah Right! |
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#32
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Quote:
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#33
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When the car wouldnt start I spoke to him and he agreed with me that it was ok to take it to a model shop to be checked over
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#34
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Unlucky mate, I once bought a HPI RS4 nitro thing via ebay from the USA, it wasn't as it was described and the engine was shafted. I probably should have opened a paypal dispute but I chalked it up to experiance and chucked it. I haven't bought anything anywhere near as expensive from ebay since and I won't buy something second hand with an engine without seeing it run first.
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Lets Off Road! |
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#35
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I am not taking sides here, just trying to be rational, as that is what is needed, not knee-capping him, or threats. If he is a minor, then maybe a trip to his house, and a chat with his parents may get you something back, but I wouldn't hold my breath.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#36
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Who said anything about knee-capping or threats??
The messages I have sent him have been friendly. The guy at the model shop said hes not interested in selling me an engine and if it was working or fixable he would say. But its hard not to write off an engine that has a 2-3cm split in the engine case and a worn piston and piston liner where the piston itself will go in and then quite far out the other side of the liner... |
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#37
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up above, not you dude, you asked for advice, and thats what some have said.
Just out of curiosity, do you have any nitro knowledge/experience?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#38
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I have a 1/10 nitro touring car
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#39
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2-3 cm split in the engine case?
I have no idea what this is, but it sounds like it should have been spotted at the time of purchase...
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#40
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like i said earlier, the split was along the line of the engine mount, you can only see it by taking the back plate off or getting a magnifying glass on it, taking it out of the car and looking at the joint between the bottom of the engine mount and the crank case
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