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#61
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I´ve used this season. Yes, it fits the 511.
I have not compared it with the regular slipper, so I can´t give you any feedback. Will do when I get the chance (when our new track is ready) |
#62
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Just after some advice regarding the double slipper!
I have this fitted to my DB-01 and the front and rear diff`s are upgraded to 501 out drives with ceramic balls. From a hard start off the line at full throttle my DB-01 pulls frantically to the right... is this the fact that the slipper is set wrong ie to lose or is it that one of my diff`s is to lose or to tight? Any advice lads? Cheers Andy
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#63
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Your right wheels must be adding more traction than the left.. A problem with your diff could explain this.. A few causes that comes to mind are: - One of the diff plates is slipping while the other is not - The wrong grease or too much grease was used - The diff screw has become bent Your tires can also be at fault if they were glued uneven causing one of them to break free.. Uneven wear on the tires could do this as well - say if the left one was very worn while the right one still had good tread. Check this stuff out and you might find your problem. |
#64
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deleted.
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#65
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Quote:
Andy
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#66
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Quote:
Also, if one of the shocks lacking some oil it can cause this problem. |
#67
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Did anyone end up getting the double slipper / running it?
I do like the transmission to have a little bit of slip in it, and I keep wearing out slipper pads and pressure plates. I think the problem is, that when the pads wear, the slipper spring stops applying pressure to the pressure plates, due to the step in the layshaft. More shims against the bearing is probably the solution, does anyone else have issues with the slipper?
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#68
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I am using the default Tamiya build and settings for the slipper clutch. I run my spring tension between 3-4mm (this is shown as a 3-4mm gap between the nylock nut and the end of the threaded layshaft assembly). This tension has always worked great, I'm just careful to ensure that the spring is perfectly centered so the tension is equal. |
#69
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the pads don't wear, they glaze over, which need to then either be replaced or scraped.
I use the double slipper.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#70
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Advantages of a double slipper over a standard type anyone??
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#71
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Allows the front axle to slip independent of the rear axle. The theory is that this allows you to get back on power quicker than standard slipper. It also adds further protection to the drivetrain.
Say your landing on your rear wheels first. The impact will not transmit the shock to the front diff. And likewise, the rear diff does not have to accelerate the mass of the front axle. Pretty cool design actually... |
#72
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it is on landings really, that you gain the advantage, it doesn't squirm as much under power off a jump.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#73
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Theres a thread in the kyosho forum about a new type of slipper for the lazer it seems to work the same way as the double slipper, but you can change the slipper pad compound to alter the slip amount between F & R.
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#74
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Any chance of the double slipper fitting in the ta05?
I'd like to get a chance at counter steering for Drift. I've heard that the Yokomo D-max has a slipper clutch that allows you to set the slippage differently, front to rear. Let's say that if it does, would I be able to set it so the front slips much more than the rear? |
#75
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So what is the lowdown on the B4/DB01 pad combo? Which pad slips more, the Tamiya or the B4? Am I right in thinking I want the rear to slip more than the front? Thanks.
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http://www.modrc.com |
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