building the shocks

KyoshoK · #1 20-09-2006

hi

was wondering how you guys fill up your shocks? i do as per instructions, but it seems to overflow too much and then it feels underfilled.

andreasH · #2 20-09-2006

I filled the shocks from the top. Worked pretty well.

sosidge · #3 20-09-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by andreasH

I filled the shocks from the top. Worked pretty well.

I've been using mine with the W6006 bladders, you have to fill from the top and be careful when you fit the bladders so they don't slip out of place, but you seem to get an air-free shock.

KyoshoK · #4 20-09-2006

yeah i'll look at those bladders.

I tried filling from the top but the lack of a bladder meant that there was a bit of a air gap.

andreasH · #5 20-09-2006

That is a very good hint.

I remember using these diaphragm at my old Tamiya shocks.
Never wondered why there were non in the Lazer kit.

BluesFan · #6 20-09-2006

Seems like these shocks have only been getting either 'love' or 'hate' relationships. I happen to love the ZX-5 shocks. They are the best in all 1/10 cars. I fill them Losi style from the bottom. Keep the shock shaft fully extended out, fill the shock body, screw the bottom cap on a few threads, push the shock shaft all the way in, screw the cap all the way in (finger tight). done and done. Easiest shocks to deal with, no air and completely smooth. I haven't even changed out my seals yet from Oct. of '05!

andreasH · #7 20-09-2006

I think that's the way it is explained in the manual.

bert digler · #8 20-09-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by andreasH

I think that's the way it is explained in the manual.

i run the grooved seals they are more efficent as dual sealed one wiper seal one external seal all in one

KyoshoK · #9 02-11-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by sosidge

I've been using mine with the W6006 bladders, you have to fill from the top and be careful when you fit the bladders so they don't slip out of place, but you seem to get an air-free shock.

hi i got the bladders now. wow so much more smoother, no more air gap, i havent had a chance to run it.

just wondering with the bladders, do you then not need to use the o-ring thats on the top cap?

sosidge · #10 02-11-2006

Yes, you need to remove the original top cap o-ring, the diaphragm makes the seal.

Funnily enough I've stopped using the bladders now because the rear shock piston hits them at full compression! Not a big problem, just something I fiddled with and decided the kit setting was better, even though you do end up with squeaky shocks.

KyoshoK · #11 02-11-2006

do you run the compression limiters still? i found they acted like window wipers and kept pushing dirt into the orings...

sosidge · #12 02-11-2006

Don't know what you mean by compression limiter?

SimonW · #13 03-11-2006

I run yokomo BC/BX rear shock shafts(Ti coated), 1, cos' the steel ones wear out quickly on dirt as they are un-protected from front wheel 'blast' and 2, cos with no internal spacer fitted they have the same down travel (droop) as the kit shafts (with spacer) as they are shorter, the piston will also sit lower in the body at full compression ie: further away from the air at the top.

sosidge · #14 03-11-2006

Nice tip, don't suppose you happen to have a part number to hand?

Have you compared the Yokomo front shafts?

jimmy · #15 03-11-2006

By compression limiters I guess he means travel limiters on the (external) shafts, to limit up-travel. ?!?

sosidge · #16 03-11-2006

Thing is, the instructions don't tell you to put any limiters on the outside of the shock - either KyoshoK has put them on afterwards or he has built the shock inside out and put the inner limiter on the outside.

jimmy · #17 03-11-2006

Unless its a very odd setup!

KyoshoK · #18 04-11-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by sosidge

Thing is, the instructions don't tell you to put any limiters on the outside of the shock - either KyoshoK has put them on afterwards or he has built the shock inside out and put the inner limiter on the outside.

oh your right. i miseread instructions. i put them on the outside instead of the inside.

so u guys run them droop limiters on the rear?

SimonW · #19 04-11-2006

Front shafts are longer and if used (i run them) give more front droop similar to what you would get if you do the team mod with law43 cut down by 3mm

sosidge · #20 04-11-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyoshoK

so u guys run them droop limiters on the rear?

You need them otherwise you will bind up or damage the driveshafts. In another post you said you had handling problems - getting the rear shocks right will make a big difference.

Simon W - thanks for the tip, might put some Yokomo shafts on my shopping list! Long shock ends are all well and good but they limit the compression as well.