diff balls! advice

[nick oliver]

Hi, could some tell me what diff balls people are putting in the kyosho diff's now? to make it run bit better an smoother, someone did tell me but i forgot..
Is it just the scremic kyosho ones? or ass? Thanks Nick.

[bretts]

I've run the car for 4 meeting now and I've still got the kit ones in.

I've been told AS6581 ASSOCIATED DIFF BALLS 3/32 CARBIDE are the ones to use at only £12 for 12 from loads of places.

I've also seen some ceramic ones for 99p each somewhere with free delivery.

The Kyosho ones are about £17

Still not sure which ones to get though....

Brett

[SimonW]

i put yokomo 3/32 diff balls in mine as i flat spotted the kit balls, changed them before the rings wore a groove, works fine, i think any 3/32 diff balls would fit.Question is who's got (makes) the hardest balls?

[DCM]

Acer Bearings do metric hard Carbide balls, and also, if you want to run the diff's a little looser then normal but not slip, just use some 1500grit wet and dry (Wet) on the diff plates, this will allow the balls not to slip on the plate, create a hradenned track and not square off your balls (ooeeer).

[jimmy]

mad, never heard of that one steve.. had problems with diff slippage at batley on sunday, wonder if that might have helped me.

[DCM]

Basicaly, the smoother the surface you have, the easier it is for the balls to slip over the diff plate, when you 'scuff' the plate, it gives the balls more to grip to, so you can run the diff a little looser without the diff slipping, this also helps with wear on the plates, as the balls aren't being pushed into the plates.

The other big killer is to much grease on there, should be just enough to lubricate the balls, and no more, the thrust race, pack the bugger.

[niggs98]

in my first lazer i put carbide diff balls in,ive just built up another for the nationals and put ceramic balls in,im testing this weekend so can give update monday,

[nick oliver]

well thanks for all your replys!

[nick oliver]

Originally Posted by niggs98

in my first lazer i put carbide diff balls in,ive just built up another for the nationals and put ceramic balls in,im testing this weekend so can give update monday,

ok mate tell me how they go plz dude, its just my dad can get 3/32 seramic ones a 1/16 ones in seramic so i think were gunna get some an try them out too! could someone tell me how long the slipper plates last on them about?

[nick oliver]

i supose when i mean slipper plates! i mean how long do the other bits in the diff last till need changing any ideas anyone??? thanks for all replys

[BluesFan]

Good thread discussion. Ball diffs all around are a pain to make them work properly. This is compounded in 4WD off-road for sure. Nick, Definitely get the ceramic diff balls for the main 3/32" size and 1/16" thrust if you are willing to pay. This is another one of those areas on our little cars that truly equal out to more money spent=higher quality (usually this is the case, however, Kyosho over prices their ceramic set so go to Acer). I was shocked to see how bad the stock steel diff balls were that Kyosho packed into the kit. I've used steel many times before, but never have they flat-spotted as quickly as they had in this car. I purchased ceramic sets for both the front and rear diffs in my ZX-5 and they've been doing great since November (last time I rebuilt my diffs). They are still as smooth as the day I put them together. That should tell you right away how long the rings will last. I still haven't bothered opening them up to see if the rings have grooved. When I finally do get around to opening them, I still have the other side to wear away.
Secondly, a lot can be said for how your diff is built. Like DCM already mentioned, not much lube is necessary for the main 3/32" balls. I follow Adam Drake's advice and put a small dab of the Losi or Associated clear grease on either side of each ball. That's it. The thrust is constantly spinning, so it needs to be packed with grease (as DCM mentioned as well). Now, I don't use Losi or Associated thrust grease. I think they aren't that good. Losi's is pure junk, and Associated black grease is 'ok'. Find yourself a high quality high temp./high pressure grease capable of keeping it's viscosity up to high temps. That way, the grease doesn't get slung out of the thrust right when you start to use your car. After your diff is built, I suggest doing the table break-in method. I like to hold one wheel stationary on the table while giving the car some throttle and let the other free wheel spin. I do this back and forth to both wheels 4 or 5 times. Check the diff afterwards to see if it loosened. Tighten it back up to where you'd like it, then run.

Lastly, I'm not sure how many of you have dealt with this problem over in the UK, but here in the states a lot of ZX-5 owners, including myself, were having a difficult time setting the slipper. Improperly set slipper clutches will destroy ball diffs quickly... and that means all the parts. If you don't melt the gear, you'll groove up your rings and flat-spot all the balls. The ZX-5 slippers seems to have way too 'grippy' of pads when brand new. I couldn't get it to slip, and the nut holding the slipper assembly together was only finger tight! I found the only way I could get it to work was to 'break in' my slipper clutch. I set it so loose that the nut could barely keep it together. I took my car out in my street where I would have more than enough traction and I'd constantly floor it from a dead stop. The slipper would slip about 10 feet or so, then I'd turn the car back around and do it again. This worked the pads in real nice and smoothed them out a bit. I only did this for about 5 min. or so. Make sure to take a look at your slipper every 30 seconds or so since this will generate a lot of heat on your spur and possibly melt the gear, but better the spur than a diff gear, in my opinion. After my slipper pads smoothed out, I could then adjust my slipper to slip only 2 feet or so and have it working perfectly where accelerating and landing from jumps didn't create the dreaded diff 'bark' noise.

[nick oliver]

Thanks for that mate, its intresting to see what other people do!
Well! theres nout wrong with my diff at moment just thinking for later on! because my can get an is getting some seramic 3/32 and 1/16's diff balls yay! an they are alot cheaper so i wont be brothered about putting new ones in lol! will just have to see how many he can get then mite start selling them but no hopes.. will just see firstly Nick thanks again for everyones help dudes

[bretts]

This has been an interesting thread..

On the subject of diffs then, what's everyones preference.

1. Centre one-way (kit) - Medium off-power steering, medium on-power steering, easy to drive through bumps, pivots mid-corner on slippy surfaces. Rear wheel brakes only.

2. One-way diff - Lots of on-power steering, slightly more off-power steering than the centre one-way, doesn't pivot mid-corner, harder to drive through bumps. Rear wheel brakes only, usually the fastest.

3. Direct shaft kit - Least off-power steering, medium on-power steering, easy to drive through bumps, pivots mid-corner on slippy surfaces. All four wheels brake.

<<above quoted from Richard Lowe on another forum>>


Of course if you run a one-way front diff and run a solid centre shaft you only need to buy one set of new diff balls!!!


Brett

[DCM]

This sounds like a silly question, but when metric Ceramic and Carbide balls are available, why are you using imperial.... I can't remember when the Asian car makers have ever used imperial measurements.....

[SimonW]

that's wot the manual states they are

[DCM]

What size are the screws?

[jimmy]

the screws and bearings are all metric, but the diff balls are 3/32 in the manual, bit mad.

[DCM]

that is very odd, usualy they don't bother with imperial...

[ulrich]

Is that the currect diff balls and material ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-32-Ceramic-Dif...QQcmdZViewItem

Ulrich

[jimmy]

Great link ulrich