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#1
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ran my sp v3 yesterday and all was well till i went to crazy on the big jump and the motor came out, screwed it back in, checked the spur and pinion all is fine yet it sounds like its clicking as its going along, a bit like a diesel, im wondering if its the diff? as the motor is okay and its not up against the spur to tight either, what should i be looking for or what could be causing it as it sounds really rough.
thanks. |
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#2
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Is the spur gear damaged?
Is there any grit or anything in the spur or pinion teeth? Is the motor plate bent? Is there any tight spots in the gear mesh when rotating the spur by hand to check the mesh with the motor pinion? Can you check the motor? Try taking it apart for a clean and checking it... Hope this helps. To check the diff, if its a ball diff, the diff screw is in the right hand side diff output, when facing the front. Cheers Mark
__________________
:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
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#3
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no no no and no lol
![]() i think it must be the diff. |
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#4
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Hi, I saw you reply to my thread from when I had a similar problem.
I ended up taking mine back to the shop and they fixed, its turned out to be the Gear Mesh. I did get them to show me how to fix it.Also had some tips in my thread. Basically they loosended the motor, then folded an A4 piece of paper and but inbetween the Pinion Gear and Spur Gear/Slipper Clutch and then moved the motor into position. Then re-tighten the motor and roll the gear round to remove the paper. The mesh should sit right then ( Mine sounds fine so I guess it works). My Slipper was way too loose as well so might want to check that. I am a total newbie to this but I think i managed to understand them lol |
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#5
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Yes saw your thread ill have a look but sure its not that, im convinced its the diff will strip it at the weekend and have a look
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#6
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how old is it?
When i took mine back to the shop as it was only 2/3 weeks old they offered to strip and fix if needed. Good luck with getting it sorted, know how frustrating it can be. Laters |
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#7
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had it about 4 months now, will look into it, its not bothering me to much but I will have a look as it sounds crazy
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#8
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Ok ive found the problem online and now i dont know what part im looking for and what part to order to fix it! Looked in the manual and cant find the matching shim number
Heres the link, can someone please advise me http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=8879 |
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#9
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When the SC10's came out and this problem reared, all you did was phone up CML and they sent some out to you, or the shop where you bought it.
I would give one of the lads at CML a ring on monday and ask them about the Gear Diff Shims. |
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#10
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But what shim are we talking about the part number 9828 doesnt exist in my b4.1 manuals
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#11
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No, it was an additional part that was brought out as a fix for the gear diff.
__________________
:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
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#12
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What part am i looking for though? Some diff rings on ebay but not sure which is correct one
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#13
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got my diff srtipped infront of me for the second time and i still cant see what i need, i have the two shims from the outdrives but cant see why it needs changing.
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#14
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There are 4 mini bevel gears that sit inside the diff housing.
There are also two bevel gears that sit behind the diff outdrives (the other side of where the driveshaft enters the diff). The shims that were mentioned are to go behind the diff output gears, and effectively tighten up the mesh between the mini bevel gears, and the diff output gears. Sorry i cannot make this any clearer!! Take it back to the shop, or get a racer at a local club to have a look for you. Cheers Mark
__________________
:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
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#15
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9828 is the differential gear. not a shim
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#16
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Even adding a shim causes the diff to be to tight that it barely turns, had it out for 4 hours now trying things and nothing seems to be best, i think the best route is a rebuild kit and redo it from the ground up
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#17
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right well ive just forked out £21 for a diff rebuild kit and some grease.
lets hope this sorts it!
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#18
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Well the diff kit did sort it but i had to double up the shims! Lets hope it holds out!
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#19
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Well im not to happy, not even had it racing since full diff rebuild and its clicking again!!! Getting a bit annoyed now as if followed so many tips ive found and i was sure it wouldnt happen again!
What should i do? |
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#20
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Ask someone experianced to help/show you how to re-build it...
Thats not me being funny, just the only thing i can think of next. |
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